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Discussion Starter #1
I have a hip roof and on one section near the gutter, I have water coming through the soffit when the rain gets heavy.

My assessment is that on that part of the roof near the gutter, the roof flattens slightly. There is a short section of shingles that hang right over the gutter where the rain falls into the gutter. My thought is that because the shingle edge is slightly flat, that rain water can creep back in and fall into the fascia board and drip through the soffit.

If such is the case, then how can I attach a drip edge onto the shingle itself?
 

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Really need a picture of the roof area.
Also go back and add your location to your profile.
It's never good to have any area sag or be flat on a shingled roof, would like to be able to see it to see why it's that way.
I know around here it's code to have Storm and Ice shield under the shingles along the lower edge to prevent this type problum.
 

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Roofmaster
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I see bricks to the left in this picture. Is this right next to a chimney? More, and better pictures are needed, as Joe said. I envelope my drip edges in ice dams flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I see bricks to the left in this picture. Is this right next to a chimney? More, and better pictures are needed, as Joe said. I envelope my drip edges in ice dams flashing.
No, the brick is the exterior facade.

The roof itself is not flat. It's a hip roof.

It appears to me that the extended length of shingles over the gutter is not long enough.
 

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I'm not even seeing any over hang on the shingles.
Should be about 1/2". If not there's your problum.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not even seeing any over hang on the shingles.
Should be about 1/2". If not there's your problum.
Well, I didn't include any pictures of the overhang. I have about 1/2" overhang, but other areas of my roof along the edge of the shingle are steeper and longer.
 

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You need to take a picture showing the edge of the roof (shingles, drip edge, gutter).
Your pic is a bit of an optical illusion. When I 1st looked at it it looked like the area where the drops are is up against the house and I was really confused as to the location of the brick section. That may explain some comments from others. Now that I see what it really is, it doesn't show anything useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
You need to take a picture showing the edge of the roof (shingles, drip edge, gutter).
Your pic is a bit of an optical illusion. When I 1st looked at it it looked like the area where the drops are is up against the house and I was really confused as to the location of the brick section. That may explain some comments from others. Now that I see what it really is, it doesn't show anything useful.
Yes, the shot is taken inside the house obviously from a window.

The brick is the house's brick facade.

What the pic shows is the water coming though the soffit. It appears the water is coming from inside the soffit vice from the fascia wrap.

I took this picture to show the roofer.

Over the past weekend, I went up on a ladder and pounded the stakes a bit firmer into the fascia, which snugged up the gutter a bit closer to the fascia.

It's raining now, and I don't see any rain water yet through the soffits.

The roofer stopped by today and only recommended install of a drip edge if I replace the gutters (I asked him to give me a gutter replacement quote prior to this.) He said the drip edge would be difficult to install due to the gutter stakes, although I suggested he could notch the drip edge.

In any regard, I think I can install some gutter hangers in that area to make sure it's snug to keep the shingle overhand at its max.

I'll try to size up a drip edge, but it would be difficult to lift the shingles up to secure the drip edge. I want to be as least intrusive as possible.
 

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The gutters need to be sliped under the drip cap.
Really bad idea to just cut out around the spikes.
I've never had any luck with gutter spikes, I only use hidden gutter hangers.
There screwed in place not nailed and should never pull out again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The gutters need to be sliped under the drip cap.
Really bad idea to just cut out around the spikes.
I've never had any luck with gutter spikes, I only use hidden gutter hangers.
There screwed in place not nailed and should never pull out again.
What's the best way to remove gutter spikes without pulling and falling off your ladder?

Ideally, you want to remove gutter spikes which are most likely nailed into the truss end. An alternative would be to just install hangers right next to the spike without removing them.
 

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What's the best way to remove gutter spikes without pulling and falling off your ladder?

Ideally, you want to remove gutter spikes which are most likely nailed into the truss end. An alternative would be to just install hangers right next to the spike without removing them.
If im trying to save the gutter, I take a prybar, hook on the head of the spike and drive it outwards. If im replacing, just beat the spike with a hammer, old gutter comes down very easily, just cut it into manageable pieces first.
 

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Just remember that ice & water and drip edge are not used at a primary protection from leaks.

The roof should be doing all the leak proofing by itself. It sounds like to me that for your roof slope 1/2" is not enough shingle overhang. Probably should be more like 1.5". Also sounds like the gutters are too high if you would have to notch around the spikes and ferrules.

Are the gutters filling up during heavy rains because downspouts are too small? Are your ferrule openings for the spikes turned down? I would remove the spikes and ferrule's and seal the nail holes on the back of the gutter, then add the hidden hangers, if you messed with them without replacing the gutter.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just remember that ice & water and drip edge are not used at a primary protection from leaks.

The roof should be doing all the leak proofing by itself. It sounds like to me that for your roof slope 1/2" is not enough shingle overhang. Probably should be more like 1.5". Also sounds like the gutters are too high if you would have to notch around the spikes and ferrules.

Are the gutters filling up during heavy rains because downspouts are too small? Are your ferrule openings for the spikes turned down? I would remove the spikes and ferrule's and seal the nail holes on the back of the gutter, then add the hidden hangers, if you messed with them without replacing the gutter.
Seems like after I snugged up the gutter against the fascia by pounding on the spikes, I saw no water at all coming through the soffit.

I think what I need to do next time moving forward is to use gutter hangers on that section.
 

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I recommend using gutter hangers (As you said) too but notching the drip would have worked.When I am removing or resetting gutters with spikes I us an angle grinder about 1/3 of the way from the back of the gutter that meets the fascia.

The gutters will continue to hang and when your ready to lower it you can do so a couple spikes at a time instead of having to drop it all at once.Step ladders really help as a second hand holding the gutters up.

After the gutter is removed off the cut spike,,,simply take some vise grips and pull the remainder of the cut off spike out of the fascia and rafter tails,,or just cut it flush tk the fascia with the angle grinder.
 
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