[DIYOkie]

Curious if there's a cleverly simple roof framing design for sheds. We don't want the typical slanted shed roof style, we want a standard roof, slight pitch, with gables.

Building a 12 x 12 shed, and was thinking of using 2 x 4's and scraps of OSB to make little trusses.

Wasn't sure if there's a better way to build it. I could go with common rafters, I know how to do them, but I was hoping for an easier quicker method.

 

[Windows on Wash]

Gable roof is a gable roof regardless of pitch. You can make it as flat as you want, but it starts looking a bit weird near the 3:12 mark.

Just make sure you do full ice/water at anything near a 4:12 and below. Just easy insurance against leaks.

Trusses are easier (as a 1 person operation) to put up than a common ridge and rafters. If you do a bit of measurements and set up your template, you can jamb out 9 trusses in no time.

 

[Windows on Wash]

Where you gonna get this wood in materials...? Home Depot or some other store. I guess you are okay with having those folks come in to service your transactional requirements.

 

[Nealtw]

When you get the floor done draw out your trusses and build them right there before you build walls.

 

[Bud9051]

a ridge board would provide an easy support for gable rakes and I like overhang all the way around and soffit venting is best. Setting a 14' (select) or so ridge beam is a piece of cake and have it all marked for rafter placement.

What ceiling height are you planning?

Bud

 

[DIYOkie]

Ha ha, yes I'm definitely selfish like that.

Yeah, I guess trusses are the way to go. The shed displays at home depot surprised me - not even a rafter tie/ceiling joist, just two pieces of lumber cut at a slight pitch with a chunk of OSB as a nailing plate. Not sure how the walls don't bow out over time on those.

 

[DIYOkie]

a ridge board would provide an easy support for gable rakes and I like overhang all the way around and soffit venting is best. Setting a 14' (select) or so ridge beam is a piece of cake and have it all marked for rafter placement.

What ceiling height are you planning?

Bud

I do like the ridge board/rafter system and any chance to practice doing it is a plus for me.

I'll have to check the span tables but I'm betting I'll need to go to at least 2 x 6 rafters if I go with that. Trusses would allow me to stick with 2 x 4's.

Was going to go with standard 8' ceiling height. This shed will be sold with the house and we won't be using it more than a year. The next shed...that one's gonna be mine for good.

 

[Nealtw]

Ha ha, yes I'm definitely selfish like that.

Yeah, I guess trusses are the way to go. The shed displays at home depot surprised me - not even a rafter tie/ceiling joist, just two pieces of lumber cut at a slight pitch with a chunk of OSB as a nailing plate. Not sure how the walls don't bow out over time on those.

They do bow out, the longer the shed the more they bow. :wink2:

 

[Bud9051]

" Not sure how the walls don't bow out over time on those."
That's why I asked your ceiling height.
If you opt for a ridge beam you can go overkill and support all rafters without tying walls together with ceiling joists, just some rafter ties farther up. That would give you more ceiling height.

Bud

Sorry I'm a slow typer

 

[DIYOkie]

" Not sure how the walls don't bow out over time on those."
That's why I asked your ceiling height.
If you opt for a ridge beam you can go overkill and support all rafters without tying walls together with ceiling joists, just some rafter ties farther up. That would give you more ceiling height.

Bud

Sorry I'm a slow typer

Ah yes, the ole ridge beam vs ridge board. I do like the beam solution giving more room for stacking and generally just prefer it. I would think a pair of 2 x 4's would make a proper beam on both ends, right?

I don't know...maybe. Once I price the lumber, I'll have my answer to most of this. This shed is simple lawn and garden storage so I need to keep things simple.

 

[Bud9051]

In Ok with a low slope roof and snow load I was thinking of a 2x12 ridge beam . As for 2x4 rafters, NOT. The money saved will not be worth the compromise. I use a lumber yard, except when I want to hand select a small quantity of lumber then I head to the box stores and flip through their stacks. IMO, go with selected 2x6, better lumber and easier to work with. You can even point it out when selling.

With the 2x12 or whatever, when larger than what you need for the gable overhang, just notch it flush to framing and leave a 2x4 extension.

Bud

 

[HotRodx10]

There are several ways to do it, and they're all about the same as far as the amount of lumber required. (The ridge beam system will save you a little lumber) The important question is do you want horizontal chords or not? If having the overhead space clear would be more convenient, use a ridge beam or edge beams (wider wall top plates with rafters attached, carrying the lateral thrust from the rafters to the end walls) to carry the roof loading. If you'd like to have the joists for extra storage space, then you want trusses.

I'll have to check the span tables but I'm betting I'll need to go to at least 2 x 6 rafters if I go with that. Trusses would allow me to stick with 2 x 4's.

Your rafter span will only be about 6'. From this span table I found, 2x4's, even at 24" spacing, would be adequate for that span. Further down in the linked article, it has a beam table that should work to size the ridge beam.