It's under the 1/8" per foot slope required for water shedding. I'd try to get a little more slope if you can.ok, so will a 1' slope be sufficient on a 13' run on a shed style roof attached to the side of my house? I'm in SC. Hardly any snow; mostly rain. What would you recommend? That is about the max. I might be able to squeeze 1.5'.
Shingles require a minimum 3 in 12 pitch. If you can't achieve that, you'll need another planIt'll be a shingle roof.
So I was thinking of attaching the ledger to what I hope is a header that runs along the top of the windows on the outside of my house (I hope the builders used a header all the way across). If I don't do that, is it acceptible to attach the ledger to the wall top plate or to the studs that are between the windows and the top plate (beneath the soffit)? If I can attach the ledger to the studs (or even the top plate) I can get an additional 1.5' slope for a total of 2.5 feet of slope.
Water will probably get under the shingles, but won't get down to the wood sheathing.nevermind, got it figured out (I think). In order to have a 3 in 12 pitched roof, over a run of 14 feet I would need the roof to drop 3.5 feet.
I KNOW there are shed style roofs with shingles in my neighborhood that are not 3 in 12 pitched roofs. If I add a water and ice shield under the shingles, what do you think?
You can bolt the ledger into framing members. Studs and top plates are framing members.Thanks everyone. Please read the rest of my question. I have enough room to do a 2/12 or even a 2.5/12 pitch IF I can bolt the ledger to the studs or top plate of the exterior wall. I will be checking with my building permit office, but wanted to know if that is generally acceptable. Is it?
Also, I've read that a water and ice barrier is a suitable underlayment under shingles on a pitch that is 2/12.