[randlefactor]

My shed roof is drooping at the ridge and the side walls are bowing out. The shed really needs new shingles so I'd like to fix the sag before I apply new roofing material. A previous owner tried adding a turnbuckle to pull the walls in but it looks like it sheared off.

What's the best way to fix the sag and bowed walls? Thanks!

 

[Hammer450R]

Jack the ridge and when it gets where you want it put in some ceiling joists.

 

[joecaption]

Got quite the mess there.
Top plates done wrong.
Almost no cross ties.
Built to close to the ground.
No ridge pole.
Undersized rafters.
Almost no cross ties and no rafters.
I'd guess the rafters that are there failed so somene tryed sistering them.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

It's taken that roof many many years to get to that condition and it isn't going back. The roof sagging pushed the walls out so to make a good building remove the roof, pull the walls back to near normal and then build a new roof. It's worth it.

 

[joecaption]

Just trying to push the roof is not going to work, main reason, there's nothing there to push up againt.

 

[randlefactor]

Did anyone notice the 2x4's in place of plywood sheathing? Was this a normal practice in the past? It seems like it would be a lot of extra weight.

 

[joecaption]

Looks more like 1X TXG to me.
1X was used all the time before plywood came out.

 

[funfool]

I agree, walls are bowing from weight of roof, is sinking down and pushing walls out.
Whoever built those trusses had their own way of doing things.
Is quite a mess at this time, as Joe said.

A roof system as this, should have what I call king pins and a ridge board.
King pins would sit on top plates on each end, then a ridge board of adequate size, to span the length and sit on top of king pins.
Now the rafters attached to ridge beam and they are supported. Will not sink down and push the walls out.

Another way would to use a web truss design like most homes have, would be a long 2x4 sitting on top plate attached to rafter and plate. A upright in the center and a few braces added to sides.
This will keep it from getting worse, you will not get it pulled back to where it should be.

As is, it is a compromised situation. I would not add any more weight to the roof with another layer of shingles. I would strip the shingles first. You can try different ways to add bracing and support.
Really is almost worth removing the roof and start over.

 

[randlefactor]

Thanks everyone. I checked the tax records and The shed was built in 1945 apparently.

Joe, you are right about the 1x's.

So I'll either build a new roof the right way with the help of my contractor neighbor ... Or my wife and I are considering tearing the shed down and building a gazebo or fire pit lounge on the concrete pad. That would open up the view of the forest in our backyard since we don't use the shed anyway. I'm not sure if this will affect the property value, however.

 

[funfool]

That shed has character, I love the old carriage doors.
A new roof on it would cure all the problems as far as I can tell from photos.
Remove roof and I bet those walls will almost fall back into place without the weight pushing them out.
But would be easy to just run a string line and brace them where needed while new roof is being installed.

Just a guestimate on time, would take 1 guy a full day to remove that roof, safely so you can build a new roof.
A good carpenter could rebuild, sheath and roof in 2 days.
Not a huge project. might take a homeowner a couple weekends, and will go much faster if you have a contractor friend as a neighbor to help :thumbsup:

Just proper design, then some cuts can get tricky, but not difficult if in no hurry and you have others here to help when you have questions.

 

[mae-ling]

going to be a different voice here.
Why not add ceiling joists side to side to keep it from getting more bowed. Then re-shingle. Leave it Bowed. Adds character!!! Kinda story book look.