[PandJ]

project - single story small house

The whole exterior is spec'd as "shear" by architect. I understand and have framed in 4x4 where hold downs are located per architect plans.

My question is for basic shear wall sheathing -
do vertical sheathing joints need to end on 3x wide studs also? I'm confused about this as that would add alot of 4x material. OR am I able to just joint over a standard 2x4 width (1.5")? The spec'd shear nailing is 6" on edge, 12" in field.

I know the horizontal blocking is necessary where there is break in sheathing. Only my front rake wall has this need so clear on that.

I'm in California.:vs_worry:

 

[PandJ]

not sure if this applies but guessing this is my answer? I think I'll just swap out the 2x4's at panel joints to 4x4's.....am i reading this correctly?

******
i. In Seismic Design Category D, E or F, where shear design values exceed 350 pounds per linear foot, all framing members receiving edge nailing from abutting panels shall not be less than a single 3-inch nominal member, or two 2-inch nominal members fastened together in accordance with Section 2306.1 to transfer the design shear value between framing members. Wood structural panel joint and sill plate nailing shall be staggered at all panel edges. See Sections 4.3.6.1 and 4.3.6.4.3 of AF&PA SDPWS for sill plate size and anchorage requirements.

****

 

[ddawg16]

2x4 Is fine....if the shear wall is noted as an A. Your drawings should have a shear wall schedule something like A, B, C...2C, etc with a corresponding nailing schedule. There should also be details on the drawings noting any area's requiring 3x or 4x studs.

When in doubt....upsize

Make sure you don't make the mistake of using narrow shear panels....like when you have only one stud bay left so you rip a sheet to fill that 16" wide bay. The shear panel but bridge at least 2 stud bays (3 studs)

 

[PandJ]

2x4 Is fine....if the shear wall is noted as an A. Your drawings should have a shear wall schedule something like A, B, C...2C, etc with a corresponding nailing schedule. There should also be details on the drawings noting any area's requiring 3x or 4x studs.

When in doubt....upsize

Make sure you don't make the mistake of using narrow shear panels....like when you have only one stud bay left so you rip a sheet to fill that 16" wide bay. The shear panel but bridge at least 2 stud bays (3 studs)

Thanks ddawg, well it notes B on schedule so it's 3"+....well now I know why takeoff included 4x4 materials :vs_bulb:. I have it just need to swap out with 2x4's.

Question- The plan has shear walls noted between windows...so do i just sheath under windows with smaller piece since the edge should at the window openings? Just want to make sure. Also, if a shear wall is noted on plans at 6 ft wide....do i use 2 3ft wide shear panels to maintain width code?

This is a small build but I'm seeing some complexities for this rookie lol. You all have been great with knowledge. You being from CA also helps since you got the framing knowledge for this state too.

 

[ddawg16]

Double check your drawing notes....in your shear schedule there should be a note about 3x

If it's a B shear wall, then you will also need 3x for the sole plate. Most inspectors will let you nail a 2x between studs the get the thickness up. But if you have anchor bolts, they need to go through both 2x members.

Man, your project sounds just like mine. Have you looked at my 2-story addition link?

On your windows and the shear wall between them...if it was me, I'd use full sheets....let one or both cover the window opening a little bit and then cut it where the window goes. One advantage of this is you don't have a seam at the edge of the window going up. I'm assuming you will do stucco...so this will reduce the chances of cracking. You will need to have blocking on the shearwall edges.

I said 'reduce'. Expect to see hairline cracks in your stucco.

 

[PandJ]

Here is how my rake ends. I need to figure out best method to tie in to adjacent wall. I'll be adding a second top plate to the rake also but just want to make sure I get end mapped out before moving forward.

The top of outer stud (outside edge) is at height of adjacent wall top double plate. I thought I could notch out just enough for the top plate to slid under the rake plate? Thoughts? I would use strapping also to ensure good strong tie in.

Also - hold comments on sheathing edge lol. I know and I know and I had to do it this way. Some of you may understand but will never happen again lol

:vs_worry:

 

[Gary in WA]

Many times the shear wall blocking is required next to the window at the sill line, to carry the shear flow through to the other corner, check the call-outs for a smaller number/letter, usually circled. Sometime the sheathing (full panel) is required to go one stud (16") past the window header to tie it properly, check that as well.
Without the additional top plate your rafter (if rake rafter is same depth as others) will be too high for a seat/cut for solid required bearing, how will you address that? The bottom of rake rafter (and commons) should be at bottom of lower top plate as you drew it...

The sheathing is a newbie error, you are doing a good job if picture was similar to your difficult wall, rather than a much simpler design as just adding plates under rafters already up. With OSB, you could have moved that first panel outboard more (3/8") to account for the required 1/8" air space between panels allowing for expansion...though usually the interior shear is installed AFTER the wiring/insulation...if OSB is on interior.

Gary
PS. reduce the air pressure so fasteners are not set below sheathing surface or Inspector may need re-nailing...

 

[PandJ]

Gary, thank you for detailed response. I learn fast so appreciate the time to share your knowledge.

Without the additional top plate your rafter (if rake rafter is same depth as others) will be too high for a seat/cut for solid required bearing, how will you address that? The bottom of rake rafter (and commons) should be at bottom of lower top plate as you drew it...

I will be adding another top plate on rake wall, just did not want to add until I am clear on a plan. So If I add the second top plate, does that help with rake rafter seating? I'm using 2x10's for rafters. I figured I could use a rake rafter of lesser depth to line up but this one has me a bit mind blocked:vs_worry:

I bought a 2x10 to user as physical template to hopefully better understand. I've scoured pics and links you provided also but not able to come to a clear conclusion.

I'm all about learning and willing to redo something if necessary so let me know if I should. The ceiling is cathedral and this is a balloon wall. I need to maintain the ceiling height as there is a loft on back half of build.

Thanks for window notes also. I am ok on that realm regarding plans and schedules.

:vs_coffee:

 

[Gary in WA]

My point was: if you add another top plate to the rake wall, then the rafter; will be taller than the standard wall and slide right off without the benefit of a birds-mouth cut required per code for positive bearing- in all the rest of the rafters; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_8_par027.htm

See page 192, Figs.13-1 and 13-2; https://books.google.com/books?id=K...oof valley on intersecting gable roof&f=false

Usually the seat cut (horizontal) is as wide as the wall (code min. 1-1/2" best if starting at inside edge of wall for max. bearing on heel) so the drywall joint is at the wall/ceiling joint. And the heel cut (ext. side of wall) is shortened on the bottom for a level soffit (or not, for rake soffit), depends on the fascia/gutter thickness required (check the plans-elevation view). Gary

 

[Gary in WA]

" I figured I could use a rake rafter of lesser depth to line up but this one has me a bit mind blocked"-------------------- yes, you will need a smaller rake rafter which is fine as it doesn't require a birds-mouth seat cut because it will be fastened every 6" along its length through the plywood with 10d nails. Only problem may be in the soffit returns that would require a little more framing, or just match the common rafter level/rake cut to the depth of the rake rafter.

One point to remember is IF you are venting the roof rather than adding foamboard against the sheathing under-side, allow for air flow at the ridge. IF I remember correctly, ddawg16 installed batt for cavity insulation and his rafter tops were flush with the ridge beam without room of exhaust air flow. You can't notch it- without SE sign-off, so plan ahead now...add a block on your center rake wall post, if needed. What say, ddawg, how did you solve it?

Gary

 

[PandJ]

"

One point to remember is IF you are venting the roof rather than adding foamboard against the sheathing under-side, allow for air flow at the ridge. IF I remember correctly, ddawg16 installed batt for cavity insulation and his rafter tops were flush with the ridge beam without room of exhaust air flow. You can't notch it- without SE sign-off, so plan ahead now...add a block on your center rake wall post, if needed. What say, ddawg, how did you solve it?

Gary

Gary,
so what do you think about this? cut out shaded part to permit top plate of adjacent wall to tie in. Top plate of rake not permits rake rafter to be cut with proper birds mouth?

I did reduced the rake wall by 6" witch actually puts it in line with height from architect plans so I think now in line where should be.

Thoughts? Should I just cut out the 4x6 stud to allow the top rafter plate to butt up against the adjacent wall top plate?

Edit- Actually in staring at it I think I need to just cut flush and then miter first top plate to sit flush with 4x6, then the top rake plate can butt up against adjacent top plate tie in?

 

[Gary in WA]

IMHO, I'd just strap it.

Gary

 

[PandJ]

IMHO, I'd just strap it.

Gary

The adjacent wall? and not tie in?

 

[PandJ]

Also , does this work from a code standpoint in regards to the rake rafter now?

I saw that dawg ran into the venting issue on his long thread for house. I have run above ridge beam an inch or so to ensure venting.

 

[ddawg16]

Why not build it like a regular wall...then build your raked portion on top?

 

[PandJ]

Why not build it like a regular wall...then build your raked portion on top?

its a cathedral ceiling so stronger to balloon frame plus its already built :biggrin2:.

I think I'm good now that I lowered rake to have rake top plate(double) end level with adjacent top plate. If I strap as Gary suggest then that allows more strength and integrity to remain with 4x6 post that is a hold down post. If I notch, it permits top plate from adjacent wall to tie in nicely.

Any feedback ddawg on approach you'd take from my current setup? Notch the shaded portion, or strap? I suppost I could plan on strapping and change if inspector wants to tie instead.

By the way, if consensus is to strap, my next thread will be on how to strap walls together lol:vs_worry:

 

[ddawg16]

I'd strap.

Look at the Simpson MST's.

I'm assuming stucco....if you do the sheathing right...it will do a great job of tying the corners together...the straps will lock it in. On the racked side, I'd use a 4x4 blocking between the studs for the strap to nail to.

If you look through the pics in my project, you should find where I strapped across the raked wall in my second story.

found a pic for you...not the best but it shows what I did

 

[PandJ]

I'd strap.

Look at the Simpson MST's.

I'm assuming stucco....if you do the sheathing right...it will do a great job of tying the corners together...the straps will lock it in. On the racked side, I'd use a 4x4 blocking between the studs for the strap to nail to.

If you look through the pics in my project, you should find where I strapped across the raked wall in my second story.

found a pic for you...not the best but it shows what I did

It will be redwood or cedar wood siding to maintain old neighborhood look.

So the strapping is on exterior and wraps the corner...mabe on top plate? On rake wall side, it would hit two 4x6 studs on balloon wall possibly (2'8" apart) in addition to 2x studs.

If I tie in with top plate of adjacent wall..seems would be stronger but I supppose that may just be old school thinking

 

[ddawg16]

You have to put blocking in between the studs to nail the strap to.

I did one strap in my house that had about 60 nails in it.

 

[PandJ]

i'll plan on strapping. If inspector wants to change, can tie in easily now that rake is corrected. Thanks for this thread help Gary and Ddwaag

too windy today to even consider lifting this heavy wall with jacks. thinking may rent a lift. The hold down bolts (4) add further complexity to get wall in place. Maybe rent a forklift....for all 10 minutes of lift. Wont be ready for ridge beam until I get other end gable setup. That will be platform style since have loft on that end.