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House is from 1950, and I live in northeast Ohio. Cast iron stack to roof line changed over inside house to plastic when bathroom remodel. New footer (have inside and outside)and gutter downspouts(separate lines) when I bought it 8 years ago when 3 new walls installed, inspected by city. Crock for footer tile is 28 feet away from original crock and have no issues. Also have in front of house outside sump pump to protect any water that might come back from city storm drains and flood the basement. So far bone dry as it has not backed up ever, and checked to make sure it works and it does. The problem crock is water out for washing machine that goes 12 feet out to septic tank When it rains pump runs constantly, to old crock and I get sewer gas smell. Does not happen in summer, only when it rains and ground is saturated. Vent has been checked no blockage. Septic tank pumped in fall. I have had 3 separate opinions. from licensed plumbers. First suggested option, cap off old 1/12 " cast iron line coming off line to outside that pump connects to as he says the pressure trying to pump into line is causing pressure and making it come back down,, and tie pump into the 4 " waste line higher up, and then install a vent to crock. 2nd. Opinion is the same, but they suggest I just cap off the line and tie in higher. Today 3rd plumber suggest, because this is an older house and the crock was cemented, I am getting water coming up in that crock from ground water below floor from when it had flooding issues before. He suggest I cap off old line like others are suggesting. Then he says I run new line that they ""T" off and run a line below frost level to the gutter outside line and they put a shut off valve on, near pump line that goes to outside and then another to the one that goes to 4" waste line. He also would put one on the washer drain line to keep me from using that line when it is having the problem. I do not want to pollute the water system either in the creek where the storm water goes 1/4 of a mile from my house. He said I would not be able to wash and I understand that. When ground is saturated I would turn the line to septic off and open valve to gutter line. He also suggest that a separate vent pipe should be installed to the and run it parallel to the vent now and tie it in at attic level. Quotes are being given for $500 and over $1500. Being a female, I want to do it right the first time. I have even been told by one that they could just call the health department and just advise them my septic tank is failing and causing the issue. I consider this blackmail. :vs_mad: I can not run this into my yard above ground. I am almost ready to retire and go on my social security, and not planning on moving from this house till I can no longer take care of it myself. Can any one direct me , as I have been researching this for days. Thank You
 

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Do all the toilets, sinks, showers, etc. work correcly all year round, rain or shine?

So you have a separate crock for the washing machine drain? Technically that is a sewage pit and should not be connected to or pumped into the footer tile crock. Also the footer tile crock must not be pumped out to the septic tank.

The washing machine water should ultimately go to the septic tank all the time, possibly temporarily to a crock and then pumped to a drain line with trap going to the septic tank, If you keep or need a crock for the washing machine drain that crock must be sealed against ground ater and be non-porous.

The footer tile crock must be emptied (using a sump pump) onto the ground surface as far from the house as is possible or into a dry well as far from the house as is possible. If this dry well fills up it must overflow onto the ground, with the help of another sump pump if needed.
 

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You are obviously getting storm water into the crock that also does your washer machine waste. This is a no no. I would suggest installing a laundry tray with a bucket sump and have it directly discharge to your septic the tie in should be 4 inch pipe. The washer will dump into the laundry tray.

You should then repipe the old pit to the storm and get it off your septic. You are overloading your leech field with storm water and this will cause premature failure.

Call your local plumbing inspector and ask for them to come out and take a look.
 

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If you are getting water into your sewage crock and you are on septic, not city sewer, you might want to have your tank inspected. Risers and lids should be above grade to ensure you are not getting any ground water penetration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All the showers, sinks work correctly year round no problems what so ever. The original crock is glazed tile. The bottom of this was deeper then the basement floor, pee gravel. The original footer tile was gravity, but is not connected to this crock now. It was brought up land quick creted. It is just for the washing machine now going out to septic tank. Tank inspected and pumped last Oct. Again, smell there only when it has heavy rains.
 
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