[Malcolm]

I'm going to spray the entire interior of a house. The walls will all be one color. I haven't decided on whether to paint the trim the same as the wall. I'm going with an off white. I'm also going to paint the ceiling. What is the best way to do this?

Should I paint the ceiling first then the walls? How do I keep overspray from hitting the ceiling when I'm doing the walls? Should I just spray a foot below the ceiling line and then roll/brush the rest?

 

[ric knows paint]

I'm going to spray the entire interior of a house. The walls will all be one color. I haven't decided on whether to paint the trim the same as the wall. I'm going with an off white. I'm also going to paint the ceiling. What is the best way to do this?

Should I paint the ceiling first then the walls? How do I keep overspray from hitting the ceiling when I'm doing the walls? Should I just spray a foot below the ceiling line and then roll/brush the rest?

Malcom,

First time spraying an occupied interior? What type of sprayer are you using, or considering? Here are the steps I'd recommend...

(1) obviously remove all furniture - then all switch & outlet covers....
(2) tape everything, then
(3) drop everything (including windows, open doorways, pets and slow moving children, then
(4) buy yourself a really good brush, and a really good roller set-up (maybe with a 14" frame & bucket), then
(5) brush & roll your walls and ceiling, 2 coats each with a high quality interior paint, then
(6) brush your trim with a fine oil or acrylic enamel, and using a professional quality 2.5" angled sash brush, then
(7) sit back and enjoy an entire hockey season with all the time you've saved by not spraying. (some here may not agree with me completely regarding the sequence of these steps...) then
(8) thank me profusely for talking you out of spraying an occupied interior.

Good luck.

 

[Malcolm]

It is not occupied. It is vacant. I removed all the kitchen cabinets and the flooring is going to be replaced. I'm also replacing the windows at the end, so I don't have to really worry about taping those off.

I bought the sprayer for the exterior. I thought it would speed things up especially with the soffits. The ceiling is popcorn, so I don't think a roller would do too well with that. Most of it has already been sprayed. I thought about removing it until I found this out. The bedrooms are the only areas where the popcorn would come off easily.

 

[Gymschu]

You can do it either way. For some, like me, it's easier to do the ceilings first and then, using a spray shield, I do the walls to minimize any overspray onto the ceilings. Other painters spray walls first, then do the ceilings. I think that's a bit harder to do. The spray shield is a great help in minimizing overspray. Now, I don't do a lot of spraying so don't take my advice as gospel, but when I did spray unoccupied apartments, I did ceilings first then the walls. Of course the colors were about the same and since they were apts, getting some overspray onto the ceilings wasn't a big deal.

 

[ToolSeeker]

I usually do the walls first. Then using a 3M hand masker with 6' plastic drop take about 10 minutes to mask around the ceiling unfold the plastic and everything is masked. Then spray the ceiling remove the masking.

When using the masker this one step covers the windows, doors and walls. The plastic drop comes in 2' 4' 6' and 9' lengths. The plastic and tape comes in a roll so you can go all the way around the room in one continuos run. Just run your tape up against the ceiling.

The trim can also be sprayed and I am assuming you are using an airless sprayer. Use the same masker but with the 2' plastic. Personally I prefer 2' paper on the masker for trim. Maybe not knowing your spry experience 4' may be better for masking. Then using a 208Fine Finish tip spray the trim. Now your done about 2 days ahead of the brush and roll guys.

 

[wptski]

I usually do the walls first. Then using a 3M hand masker with 6' plastic drop take about 10 minutes to mask around the ceiling unfold the plastic and everything is masked. Then spray the ceiling remove the masking.

When using the masker this one step covers the windows, doors and walls. The plastic drop comes in 2' 4' 6' and 9' lengths. The plastic and tape comes in a roll so you can go all the way around the room in one continuos run. Just run your tape up against the ceiling.

The trim can also be sprayed and I am assuming you are using an airless sprayer. Use the same masker but with the 2' plastic. Personally I prefer 2' paper on the masker for trim. Maybe not knowing your spry experience 4' may be better for masking. Then using a 208Fine Finish tip spray the trim. Now your done about 2 days ahead of the brush and roll guys.

I've never seen 3M plastic for their hand masker in 9' rolls.

EDIT:

I found it now! I'll be..........

 

[Malcolm]

I usually do the walls first. Then using a 3M hand masker with 6' plastic drop take about 10 minutes to mask around the ceiling unfold the plastic and everything is masked. Then spray the ceiling remove the masking.

When using the masker this one step covers the windows, doors and walls. The plastic drop comes in 2' 4' 6' and 9' lengths. The plastic and tape comes in a roll so you can go all the way around the room in one continuos run. Just run your tape up against the ceiling.

The trim can also be sprayed and I am assuming you are using an airless sprayer. Use the same masker but with the 2' plastic. Personally I prefer 2' paper on the masker for trim. Maybe not knowing your spry experience 4' may be better for masking. Then using a 208Fine Finish tip spray the trim. Now your done about 2 days ahead of the brush and roll guys.

That sounds like a great plan. I'll invest in the hand masker product.

What are your thoughts on using it for the outside soffits as well? Basically, paint the walls first and then come back and do the soffits?

Thanks

 

[ToolSeeker]

It's doable the problem is I would brush and roll the soffits. Spraying the soffits it's really important to mask the roof shingles because any errant spray or overspray on the shingles is there to stay. The masker is great for windows and doors when spraying exterior.
If your asking about masking the soffits and spraying the walls absolutely.

 

[wptski]

They have 31"x10" cardboard pieces, you just tuck them under the shingles edges. Works like a charm to keep over spray off them.

 

[Will22]

I agree completely with Ric. Hopefully you are experienced in using an airless sprayer, otherwise, there is the probability of a mess. Spraying interiors should be done with someone back rolling behind the sprayer (to avoid runs and uneven application). Even experienced sprayers cannot distribute paint over a large area.

A very important safety tip: Spraying inside puts a lot of moisture (water vapor) into the air. Not only can this cause respiratory and vision problems, but it can be dangerous if there is insufficient ventilation. In the end, you will use more paint spraying compared to brushing and rolling (this is called transfer efficiency).

 

[ToolSeeker]

I agree completely with Ric. Hopefully you are experienced in using an airless sprayer, otherwise, there is the probability of a mess. Spraying interiors should be done with someone back rolling behind the sprayer (to avoid runs and uneven application). Even experienced sprayers cannot distribute paint over a large area.

A very important safety tip: Spraying inside puts a lot of moisture (water vapor) into the air. Not only can this cause respiratory and vision problems, but it can be dangerous if there is insufficient ventilation. In the end, you will use more paint spraying compared to brushing and rolling (this is called transfer efficiency).

I'm going to dis agree with some of what you say.
The reason to bankroll is to add texture to the surface which makes repairs easier to match. And now a lot of painters have forgone bankrolling completely.
The statement about distribution over a large area I don't understand since the larger the area is where a sprayer excels.
If your putting so much vapor in the air to be dangerous your using way too big a tip.
I realize spraying isn't for everyone I used to feel the same way. Now I spray more and more, and love it. Remember when paint roller first came out and for many years they were thought to be a HO toy unions were going to strike over them. The biggest thing to help my spraying was learning about different tip sizes for different applications. We are now spraying in occupied homes and spraying trim.
Sorry got carried away.

 

[Will22]

I recommended back rolling to assure uniform mil thickness (avoiding laps and runs, also), as spraying does not always accomplish this alone. Obviously, it depends on the skill and experience of the applicator, in addition to the environment (humidity, ventilation).

My suggestion about water vapor in the air is a safety concern, as there must be sufficient ventilation and airflow. Regardless of the tip size, the water vapor atomized by an airless sprayer can cause a fog effect if there is inadequate ventilation. Someone inexperienced in spraying with an airless may not be aware of this.

 

[wptski]

Water vapor? If it was just water, we wouldn't have to worry about it getting on everything else. It's a material vapor. The water including other chemicals evaporates leaving the solids on the target to dry and wherever else overspray fell.

 

[ToolSeeker]

True I don't see "water vapor" being a problem as we walk in fog and I live in Fla. where the humidity runs in the 90's. Now it's my understanding all or most all paint off gasses (maybe the wrong term). In the case of latex it's the "water" evaporating letting the paint leaving the resins and such adhering to the wall. Maybe Ric will fix this if I'm wrong. But could this evaporation process also be considered as vapor?

I think the biggest mistake first time sprayers make is they go out and buy a sprayer and most come with a 517 tip. This is a fairly large tip, great for exteriors. But a little large for interiors with an inexperienced sprayer. Hold your gun a little too far from the wall and you will think the fog set in.

Now the other extreme is say a 208 fine finish tip. This is a 4" fan with a >008 hole. this atomizes the paint to the point after a foot or 2 the paint acts like dryfall. This tip would be used for say crown or baseboard.

Admittedly these are extremes, the point I guess I'm trying to make is to educate yourself about whip hoses, adjusting the pressure, and tips, will eliminate most of the problems associated with spraying. The first couple times I sprayed I hated it. Mostly because of the problems stated here. I then hired a guy that had spray experience and learned from him. From then on I read and educated myself on spraying. Now the more I use it the more I like it.

I know spray is not for everyone, I guess it's that old dog new trick thing. But I believe anyone who wants to start painting and does not learn and become efficient at spraying will be left behind. I don't really advise an inexperienced sprayer to start in an occupied home. But in this case the home is unoccupied.

 

[wptski]

T
I think the biggest mistake first time sprayers make is they go out and buy a sprayer and most come with a 517 tip. This is a fairly large tip, great for exteriors. But a little large for interiors with an inexperienced sprayer. Hold your gun a little too far from the wall and you will think the fog set in.

Now the other extreme is say a 208 fine finish tip. This is a 4" fan with a >008 hole. this atomizes the paint to the point after a foot or 2 the paint acts like dryfall. This tip would be used for say crown or baseboard.

Manufactures of paint always state .015"-.017" or larger too. A .015 puts out .24 gallons/min and a .017 is .31 gallons/mi. You have to run like a swarm of bees is chasing you. I've used a .013" with latex.

If you get a handheld that uses a cup, they have a guard/tip sets with fixed sizes but if it's a Graco you can mod the holder so you can use any Graco Rac X blue tip or the green fine finish tip.