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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

I have a septic tank that has some very old, deformed covers that are cracking and not affixed. They’re letting some dirt in the tank, so I’m upgrading them to some new plastic ones with seat rings, risers, and covers.

However, I ran into a problem where this tank looks to be fiberglass and has very oddly shaped, oval openings. Looks almost like it’s been warped over the years (installed in the 70s).

Thus, I cannot affix the cover assembly to the tank and need some ideas. See attached pictures. I bought 24” cover assembly, FYI.

One idea I had was to pour concrete around the opening so that it creates a nice even surface for me to install the assembly.

Would like to hear some thoughts about my idea or alternative suggestions.

As an aside, as I was digging, I noticed the drain pipe exiting the tank to the drain field was dislodged and am afraid it might be clogged. I vacuumed out some dirt that fell in while I dug it out, but reached a point where the vacuum hose wasn’t going in any further. Is there a DIY way to clean out this system and unclog if it’s clogged?

Thanks!!
TiredDigger
 

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retired framer
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Put some water in the pipe and see if it goes down, you may have run into a bend or a tee.

I think I would remove more dirt from under the ring, put in the screws you can and fill the voids and below with a spray foam, maybe after you have attached the riser so you don't change the shape of the ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The thing is, the tank has an odd shape and the tank goes down at an angle from the opening. No matter how far I dig, I’m never going to reach a flat surface to attach a ring to and then rise all the way up. I essentially need a way to either adapt to the odd oval shape or figure out a way to get the ring onto something.
 

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retired framer
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The thing is, the tank has an odd shape and the tank goes down at an angle from the opening. No matter how far I dig, I’m never going to reach a flat surface to attach a ring to and then rise all the way up. I essentially need a way to either adapt to the odd oval shape or figure out a way to get the ring onto something.
Level the dirt, lift the ring 1/2" off the dirt and screw it in place and add the foam,
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you mean screw it into the tank opening through the sides in order to leave it suspended above the dirt?

I’ll need some long screws in some spots but that’s a pretty good idea. Only worry I’d have is that it wouldn’t hold weight very well.
 

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retired framer
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Do you mean screw it into the tank opening through the sides in order to leave it suspended above the dirt?

I’ll need some long screws in some spots but that’s a pretty good idea. Only worry I’d have is that it wouldn’t hold weight very well.
They build roads on foam and use foam to lift sunken concrete slabs.
 

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Purchase a set of F clamp/spreader bars (shown below). These can be changed from a clamping function to a spreader function by taking the head off and putting it on the other end of the bar.
Remove soil around the opening at least 2 or more inches below the opening. Drop your new seat around the opening. Put your clamping bar on the long dimension, put your spreader bar in the short dimension. Clamp and spread the opening using the new seat as a visual guide. When you have the opening as close to round as you can get it, remove the clamping bar. The spreader bar should retain the shape of the opening. Remove the new seat without removing the spreader bar. (Yes, you can do that). Pour concrete around the opening up to the top of the opening. Drill a few holes in the new seat. Put the new seat back in place (without removing the spreader bar), flush or below the the top of the opening. Insert stainless steal screws through the new seat into the wet concrete. When dry the concrete keep the shape of opening round and the screws should hold the new seat in place.
 

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Naildriver
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I know it isn't part of the original post, but you are going to address the perf pipe connection at the exit, right? That should be hard pipe, at least to your distribution box.
 
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retired framer
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I know it isn't part of the original post, but you are going to address the perf pipe connection at the exit, right? That should be hard pipe, at least to your distribution box.
We can get pipe not perforated. But I agree it should be hard pipe.
 
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