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I just moved into a 70's Bilevel and noticed that there are screws popping out of the drywall ALL over the house. Its clear to see that they sunk the screws too deep during construction. Should I:

  1. patch, prime and paint
  2. loosen screws and then do #1
  3. or redo all of the drywall in the house?
3 is extreme but is there any advantage to redoing the drywall? I want the walls to look nice and crisp when I paint them but I am concerned with all of the patch marks that will be left behind by the screws.

Any suggestions?
 

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Silly question but are you sure they are screws and not nails? Overdriving them would not make them pop. Remove the screw, drive one right close to the hole. Sand, prime, and paint.
 

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Any 70's home I've worked on used nails not screws.
One we own there was an earth quake near by and it popped every single nail.
They had used 1" smooth shank, small headed nails. (looked like box nails)
Adding more screws is the way to go.
What you may see happen as the drywall gets pulled tight to the stud the area where the old screw or nail is may pop out or bulge.
Just give it a tap with a hammer and remove any loose material.
I use a 4" wide knife and often use the outside corner of the knife to push some of the mud into the recessed area so there's no air bubble trapped that will cause a low or loose area.
The only trick is to use thin coats, so very little if any mud is on the wall it's self.
Once dry a quick light sanding, go back and check every one of the repaired spots looking for any low or high area, rub your hand over them, if you can feel a flaw it's going to show when painted.
Wipe down the walls with a damp rag to get rid of any sanding dust, paints not going to stick to dust.
Once it's primed look it over again and fix any flaws before painting, primer makes the flaws stick out, and no paint is going to fix mistakes.
Use a sanding pad to sand so it stays flat on the wall, sand in a ciruler motion so you do not get lines.
I run my wet dry vac with a drywall bag over the filter holding the hose below where I'm sanding for less clean up.
Opening up a window, removing the screen and setting a cheap dollar store box fan in the window blowing out also helps with the dust.
 

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Good picture, that pop is exactly what I was trying to describe when the dry wall pulls in.
If you just used one screw it may not hold and just pop through the paper.
 

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I use my impact driver to drive drywall screws with just a regular #2 bit.
It gives me enough control of depth and works for me.
 

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The 1970 saw the invention of 'drywall glue'--great idea that allowed the use of fewer nails to support the drywall--

HOWEVER, the first generation of glue became brittle and failed after 10 or 15 years-leading to an extraordinary amount of nail pops ,many years after the work was completed.
 

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I use my impact driver to drive drywall screws with just a regular #2 bit.
It gives me enough control of depth and works for me.
Not a good tool to use - at best, it will be very slow because you have to be so careful of overdriving. But hell, you can use a screwdriver to do it if you really want to. In order of worst to best, I'd use:
- screwdriver
- impact driver
- drill driver
- drill driver with dimpler
- drywall screw gun
- drywall screw gun with auto feed screws
 

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Not a good tool to use - at best, it will be very slow because you have to be so careful of overdriving. But hell, you can use a screwdriver to do it if you really want to. In order of worst to best, I'd use:
- screwdriver
- impact driver
- drill driver
- drill driver with dimpler
- drywall screw gun
- drywall screw gun with auto feed screws
If you haven't got many screws to do, just use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with an extension and a 1/4 inch socket. Put a #2 Phillips driver bit in the socket and the ratchet gives you enough leverage to drive the screws in quickly and easily without overdriving any of them.

I find that I just can't twist a screw driver hard enough to sink a drywall screw into drywall properly.
 
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