[jjrbus]

I used an almost white interior satin SW super paint on my metal garage door, the man door from inside garage to enter house. Paint was drying as I brushed and making a mess, so I washed it off. Let dry, thinned the SP and brushed again.


Still have some opp's although not as bad as first try. But would like to sand them out. I find nothing online indicating how long to let the paint dry before trying to sand? In Florida, temp mostly up near 80, very high humidity.



Any suggested waiting times?

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

I used an almost white interior satin SW super paint on my metal garage door, the man door from inside garage to enter house. Paint was drying as I brushed and making a mess, so I washed it off. Let dry, thinned the SP and brushed again.


Still have some opp's although not as bad as first try. But would like to sand them out. I find nothing online indicating how long to let the paint dry before trying to sand? In Florida, temp mostly up near 80, very high humidity.



Any suggested waiting times?

at least 24 hours

 

[mark sr]

.... and latex paints [especially those with a sheen] don't respond well to aggressive sanding. The paint 'melts' and plugs up the sandpaper in short order. If you can, I'd give it a couple of days to dry.


Try to paint the door while the door is cooler - if it sets in the sun it can absorb a lot of heat making it harder to paint.

 

[joecaption]

I would have used a 6" foam hot dog roller and a sash brush to do the tip off.
I would come out as smooth as it was sprayed.

 

[jjrbus]

I am 70 and painted quite a bit over the years and not run into this before. It is a common steel, primed panel door. I cleaned it well and have it sitting on saw horses in the garage.


I did paint the metal and glass outside patio door in place with SW exterior super paint with no issues a few years ago..



I did the panels first, then as I tried to paint the stiles and rails, the paint from the sides of the panels would lift. Was making a mess so I washed it off and let it dry. then thinned paint and worked as fast as I could to coat the door. Still got a small amount of lift, not horrible. I was able to sand it a bit this evening with 150 grit and put on a second thinned coat with no issues. The sandpaper did gum up quickly.


I will look in the morning and if no opps are visible will try an unthinned coat. If it needs sanding will let it sit for a couple days before trying.

 

[CB750]

7-10 days for powder-dry sanding.

 

[jjrbus]

I did an unthinned coat today, not as nice as I would like. For some reason the paint drying to fast. Not that hot out, very humid, laying flat in garage on saw horses out of the sun. I had already done 2 new primed wooden panel door with no issues?? Color me confused.

 

[CB750]

I did an unthinned coat today, not as nice as I would like. For some reason the paint drying to fast. Not that hot out, very humid, laying flat in garage on saw horses out of the sun. I had already done 2 new primed wooden panel door with no issues?? Color me confused.

pics please. what is door made out of? dark color?

 

[jeffnc]

Super Paint is not really the best paint for working time, leveling and hardness, by the way. I actually use it a lot for doors, but I assume the finish is going to be "OK", and I also can work smoothly and quickly enough, after some experience, that I haven't had any issues.

 

[carpdad]

Almost sounds like this is kind of paint I would not want to use. How finicky is it? OP sounds like he was brushing too slowly and maybe did not prime the metal door, adding to lifting problem. Metal was too smooth. I roll the door as well using 4" roller and use the amount of paint where I would expect to coat the door at least twice. I roll the recessed edges of the panels first then the panel faces then the outer frame parts. If the OP made the mistakes with drops and such, it's all up to his technics.:smile:
Actually, I stopped painting about when homedepot behr started selling paint plus primer paints. I thought they were heavier bodied. Didn't like that paint at all but there's no paint only paints these days.

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

Actually, I stopped painting about when homedepot behr started selling paint plus primer paints. I thought they were heavier bodied. Didn't like that paint at all but there's no paint only paints these days.

'paint and primer' was always a marketing gimmick invented by big box stores to confuse consumers. All it means is that the paints have good adhesive qualities to the specified substrates and for most paints that only means only primed or previously painted surfaces.


Some paints are truly self priming on most surfaces like Aura or urethane acrylics like cabinetcoat. Even then you should still spec a primer most of the time.

 

[jeffnc]

All it means is that the paints have good adhesive qualities to the specified substrates and for most paints that only means only primed or previously painted surfaces.

One of the specified substrates for most paints is new drywall.

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

One of the specified substrates for most paints is new drywall.

most 'premium' paints anyway. contractor grade paints like promar or ultraspec will spec a primer on new drywall.


Not sure why you would go around using $40-$80 paint as a primer coat when the drywall just sucks it right up but the paint document says you can.

 

[jeffnc]

most 'premium' paints anyway. contractor grade paints like promar or ultraspec will spec a primer on new drywall.

Well one of the reasons I mentioned that is some people just assume that Behr is not a "premium" paint simply because it's available at Home Depot, and that's spec'd for bare drywall.

Not sure why you would go around using $40-$80 paint as a primer coat when the drywall just sucks it right up but the paint document says you can.

With regards to price, it might seem primer is less expensive, but not necessarily. Let's say for sake of argument that you're painting a 15x15 master bedroom with 8 foot ceilings. You're going to need 2 gallons to do 1 coat. Let's say the primer is $20 and the paint is $40. 2 gallons of primer and 2 gallons of paint is $120. That assumes you tinted your primer and the paint goes on in 1 coat. Most people swear by 2 finish coats for correct color, which will take 3 gallons, so now your cost is $160.


Now skip the primer and just use 2 coats of paint. That's 3 gallons at $120.

So "priming" with paint is actually cheaper in this pretty typical case. Or at best the same price if you can get away with 1 finish coat.

 

[jjrbus]

most 'premium' paints anyway. contractor grade paints like promar or ultraspec will spec a primer on new drywall.


Not sure why you would go around using $40-$80 paint as a primer coat when the drywall just sucks it right up but the paint document says you can.

Depends on situation, I just did an average size bathroom. If I bought primer and paint I would be sitting here with 3 quarts of primer and paint left. A pro would use the primer somewhere else. For me it would sit in the garage for a few years, before I threw it out:biggrin2:

 

[cocomonkeynuts]

Well one of the reasons I mentioned that is some people just assume that Behr is not a "premium" paint simply because it's available at Home Depot, and that's spec'd for bare drywall.






With regards to price, it might seem primer is less expensive, but not necessarily. Let's say for sake of argument that you're painting a 15x15 master bedroom with 8 foot ceilings. You're going to need 2 gallons to do 1 coat. Let's say the primer is $20 and the paint is $40. 2 gallons of primer and 2 gallons of paint is $120. That assumes you tinted your primer and the paint goes on in 1 coat. Most people swear by 2 finish coats for correct color, which will take 3 gallons, so now your cost is $160.


Now skip the primer and just use 2 coats of paint. That's 3 gallons at $120.

So "priming" with paint is actually cheaper in this pretty typical case. Or at best the same price if you can get away with 1 finish coat.

Primer is used because it has good adhesive and sealing properties that give you a good even base to paint over. After primer is applied then also your opportunity to fully inspect the drywall for defects before applying finish. The fact a half decent primer cost less than the finish coat is just a bonus.


You can certainly use the paint as its own primer coat but I think it would bite you in the butt real fast if you were using that as a system on level 5 finishes. Same reason I wouldn't ever spec a PVA primer.