[Fix'n it]

i am in the process of muding my new drywall. looks like i am not as good at it as i would like . so i know that there will be imperfections, even after i give it a good look over before primer. so, once i prime it, will i be able to sand down high spots ? i believe i will be able to put more mud on top of primer ? to fill low spots ?
i am focusing on one wall, so i can keep my errors in one place, and limit future errors.

 

[Brushjockey]

When you sand ( before priming), have a trouble light in your hand and hold it at an angle. When you do it you will see what I am saying- it will improve your sanding a billion percent.
After you prime, do the same with the light and touch up with mud where it needs it, repeat process, reprime.
With practice it will get better!

 

[jsheridan]

Fix, I'll add to BJ's always sage advice. Sanding is always a two handed job, one sanding and the other feeling for what needs to be sanded and for results your sanding is achieving.
It's always better to sand high spots out prior to priming, and it's better to spackle out low spots after priming or, if they're obviously low enough, before you prime.

Sanding out a high spot will break the "skin" of the primed surface and create a situation requiring a skim coat.
Using a light from the side will throw shadows and highlight imperfections on the surface.
Don't feel bad, after priming spackle touch up is pretty much expected and routine, even for the pros. Prep isn't finished until you're rolling the final coat on, and even then I've been known to knife some caulking or lightweight vinyl spackle, which can be painted over immediately, into picture holes or small dings while I'm finish coat rolling.

 

[ToolSeeker]

Knock off any ridges then using a 12" drywall knife put on a thin coat of Lightweight #3, or drywall topping mix, or the new ultra lite mud. Any of these 3 are a lot easier to sand than all purpose, and the 12" knife will feather your mud out farther and will help eliminate high spots.

 

[princelake]

if your work isnt as good as you would like then go over it again giving it a skim coat, there is no rule saying you can only do 3 coats. then do what brushjockey says.

 

[Fix'n it]

ok guys, thanx for the advice. i will try all of those things.

while i do not feel that all purpose is hard to sand. when there is a lot of sanding to do, anything that makes it go faster is a real help.

 

[Fix'n it]

i now have a bucket of SHEETROCK ultralightweight all purpose. . have yet to try it. probably today.

what a mess

 

[ToolSeeker]

Please let us know how it works for you I seem to be the only one that has tried it. Would be good to hear some one else's opinion.

 

[Brushjockey]

Rolling baker and the whole deal- you got it going on!

 

[Brushjockey]

The light green lid? What does it do that Plus3 doesn't ( blue lid)

 

[Fix'n it]

Please let us know how it works for you I seem to be the only one that has tried it. Would be good to hear some one else's opinion.

sure will.

Rolling baker and the whole deal- you got it going on!

wth is a rolling baker ? the scaffold ? i got that for $60 on CL = excellent buy :thumbsup:

 

[chrisn]

The light green lid? What does it do that Plus3 doesn't ( blue lid)

imo the blue is the way to go

 

[Brushjockey]

wth is a rolling baker ? the scaffold ? i got that for $60 on CL = excellent buy :thumbsup:

Yup- That is called a bakers scaffold- skinny and interior compared to the big square ones usually used on outside.

 

[ToolSeeker]

The light green lid? What does it do that Plus3 doesn't ( blue lid)

It's a lot lighter and easier to use you don't need to add water to loosen it up just stir. It's a lot easier to sand, it's almost like topping if you have ever used that.

 

[Brushjockey]

Plus 3 is about as soft and easy sanding as I'd want- I haven't seen that product- and will look for it.
Its all made by USG it looks like- so they wouldn't compete with themselves- must fit a need that I personally don't see yet- so I'll check it out when i can.

 

[princelake]

the puke green ultralight came out when the ultralight drywall came out. i guess its suppose to be a new and improved finishing compound. i havent personally used it, i've picked up a bucket at the store and it is lighter but i havent heard that its much better and for $5 a buck i was told not to waste my time/money. i always use lafarge rapid coat much better then any sheetrock product but use what you know works for you.

 

[Fix'n it]

i put on almost half the bucket yesterday. i had to wet it down a good bit. perhaps i had a dry batch, idk. but the water helped a lot. i am going to be sanding it today.

 

[Fix'n it]

this stuff is great ! sands way easier that regular JC. that saved my asss, as i had a lot more sanding than i though. this sanding chit is for the birds !

 

[Brushjockey]

lol- everyone's' favorite job. I use a hand sander hooked to a shop vac- at least it makes it way less messy.
Sounds like you're getting it though. keep it up!

 

[Fix'n it]

man. my freak'n body is hurting me. and my house is a mess, kinda. but i got it mostly cleaned up. and i have the whole room primed. i do still have some fix'n to do. but i should be able to paint next weekend.

i did learn my lesson on putting up drywall = no more butt joints, ever. full sized sheets, no cutting of the tapered sides, 16" oc throughout , cut out for windows and doors = nothing but tapered joints = easy tap'n and sand'n.