DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I appreciate the time you take to read this long post and share any advice you may have!


Deck = 14x28 + privacy walls with lattice + 88 spindles + 8 steps
SE Michigan
4' off the ground with open access on mostly 3 sides
made of pine/cedar? .. whatever is cheaper for contractors
12 years old with very little maintenance/if any performed by previous owner of 11 years
Wood is structurally sound and is looking good after sanding.
previous stain was oiled based


I am 70% done sanding and plan on staining ASAP.


A. Its raining outside with a forecast for possible rain the next few days.
Do I need to panic about the part that is sanded? Several days of rain not that big of a deal? The sanded portions turn a very dark/black color when wet .. whats up with that?
.5-3" of rain total forecasted for the week.


B. Once the sanding is done: power wash lightly, 3 day dry time, and then stain? Do I need to use a chemical cleaner etc? The idea of using paint thinner and wiping up doesnt seem as effective to remove all dust/wood particles??


C. The parts I cannot get a sander in (spindle sides), I was going to use a stirpper before the final power wash .. any issues there? I expect slightly discolor from rest of deck. Any issues?


D. Finally the most common ? - what brand of semi-transparent stain to use ... I am just accepting the fact that I will have to power wash annually and stain every 2 years.
I am leaning towards Max. Olympic or Cabot? I want TWP but have to order online and dont want to deal with that. Sikkens is just to pricey for my budget.


Again, thank you for getting through this!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
akaJoe said:
I appreciate the time you take to read this long post and share any advice you may have!

Deck = 14x28 + privacy walls with lattice + 88 spindles + 8 steps
SE Michigan
4' off the ground with open access on mostly 3 sides
made of pine/cedar? .. whatever is cheaper for contractors
12 years old with very little maintenance/if any performed by previous owner of 11 years
Wood is structurally sound and is looking good after sanding.
previous stain was oiled based

I am 70% done sanding and plan on staining ASAP.

A. Its raining outside with a forecast for possible rain the next few days.
Do I need to panic about the part that is sanded? Several days of rain not that big of a deal? The sanded portions turn a very dark/black color when wet .. whats up with that?
.5-3" of rain total forecasted for the week.

B. Once the sanding is done: power wash lightly, 3 day dry time, and then stain? Do I need to use a chemical cleaner etc? The idea of using paint thinner and wiping up doesnt seem as effective to remove all dust/wood particles??

C. The parts I cannot get a sander in (spindle sides), I was going to use a stirpper before the final power wash .. any issues there? I expect slightly discolor from rest of deck. Any issues?

D. Finally the most common ? - what brand of semi-transparent stain to use ... I am just accepting the fact that I will have to power wash annually and stain every 2 years.
I am leaning towards Max. Olympic or Cabot? I want TWP but have to order online and dont want to deal with that. Sikkens is just to pricey for my budget.

Again, thank you for getting through this!
A; IMO, it won't be a big deal for the deck to get wet for a few days In between sanding and staining as long as the wood is dry before you apply stain. A digital moisture meter is an invaluable tool when judging if wood is dry enough to stain or not. Simple ones are cheap (30$ or so), or you can often rent/borrow one from local paint suppliers (probably not box stores though).

The wood looks black when wet because its weathered/grayed over the years. When the wood is wet, that's a pretty good approximation of what it will look like with a clear sealer.

B; Don't clean the wood with paint thinner. Mineral spirits/thinner leaves an oily residue after evaporation, and even with oil stain, that is not good.

C; if you use a stripper at all it will most likely need to be neutralized before staining. One system for doing this is; strip the parts you want to strip,being carefully not to drip too much chemical on areas not being stripped. Then use a wood brightener on the whole deck. This will neutralize the stripper and brighten/even out the whole deck. Maybe don't give up on sanding between the pickets just yet, Dewalt makes a 'low profile' orbital sander that will sometimes fit between the pickets. You could measure and check the fit before buying.

D; I like the Olympic toner. It penetrates well, and I've been getting 3 yrs average out of it.
It also looks good on properly prepped decks.

Sanding is the best prep you can do for a deck IMO. Sounds like you are on the right track.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
"Then use a wood brightener on the whole deck'

I understand the neutralizing of the stripper but will the brightener do anything to the sanded part?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,889 Posts
Yes, the brightner will brighten the entire deck, i.e the place where you stripped/neutralised and the just sanded part...Brightners are usually just mild acids, citric and/or oxalic - in powder or liquid form - their purpose is basically twofold: 1 to neutralise stripppers and cleaners used prior to brightning and 2, to restore the entire deck's pH to just acidic, ie. around pH=6 or so. This makes it better to stain.

But by "brightning", you also clean it a wee bit. There'll be no harm done to anything - even just sanded new wood, although technically new wod wouldn't need to be brightened as much as old wood would.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jmayspaint
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top