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Discussion Starter #1
Operating my RV's electrical appliances blows the breaker on the available circuit run on a 100' extension from the house - I think the RV is trying to draw 30A from a 20A circuit. Can I get an adapter to run the RV off my 30A electric dryer outlet? I've changed over to a gas dryer, so the circuit is completely unused.
 

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What size extension cord are you going to use.

A 100ft run with a load of 20+ amps is in the #10 Cu range of an extension cord at a very MININUM.
Oherwise you are begging for trouble... H E A T ....!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
shore power

I was going to build it myself out of 10 GA type SO; it only has to be about 20' long, as the RV's own cable is about 20' and it's just from the driveway into the garage.
 

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Try it...but check that cord for heating on a regular basis...till you feel comfortable with it....
 

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Try it...but check that cord for heating on a regular basis...till you feel comfortable with it....

Don't follow this person advise, don't just try something and check it for heat on a regular basis to make sure it is not burning. This has to be the most ridicioulus and unsafe advice I have seen giving on this board.

I don't know much about RV but I beleive alot of RV run off a 30A service. If this is correct then of course you will blow a 20A circuit. If it does require a 30A breaker your dryer plug would be an ideal place to steal power. Like i said I know nothing on RV, if it requires a 240V/120V serivce you should be able to use the dryer plug unless it is the locking type of plug. If it runs on 120V you can still use the dryer circuit but the plug will have to be changed.

So find out if it needs a 240/120V connection or just a 120V connection and what type of plug you have on the end from the rv and we can help you out some more.
 

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The reason I said check it on a regular basis was that he was not clear in the length of run of the #10 SO cord to what pigtail.
The length, pending the load (v drop) could create undue HEAT.

Please watch out about commenting on supposed ridiculous advice statements made. As you get older, and wiser, you will understand why you have to make those statement to DIY's. Rarely do they correctly give you info, and even after you give them the correct infromation & methods. ... it's my next door neighbor did it this way.... and he does it that way .....

An amprobe would be a big step in deciding whether or not it could be a potential problem, but I seriously doubt that he has one.
Why I mentioned keeping an eye on it for HEAT, it that you really never know what these DIY's are really doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
always learning

There's good info in both the recent posts, thanks. The RV does run off 30A, but I think it's 120v. I will have to build the extension, as I will need a 3-wire male dryer plug, then the 10GA cable (will 10 GA be big enough?) for 20 or 25', then a female 30A receptacle. I don't have an amp probe, but one of my colleagues might. Any other advice?
 

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DaRose,
After thinking about this a bit more. There are some details lacking. Something doesn't quite make sense.
Assumption :
1)Your dryer is a 2P 30a 230v 2W system with a bare equipment ground.
2)Your camper is a 1P 30a 115v system.
3)I'm not familiar with camper power setups, but if it's similar to my boat doack....it's a standard 1P 30a 115v hookup w/ twist locks at both ends.

This conversion will NOT work with the present configuration of the dryer wiring and receptacle. Your system does not have a neutral. I am assuming your dryer cckt is a 2P with a bare equipment ground.

You would have to re-configure the dryer ckt to a 1P 30a system ...ie, 1)replace the 2P 30a brkr with a 1P brkr.
2)replace the 2P dryer receptacle with the proper matching 1P 30a devices ... receptacle and male cord end. I highly recommend TWIST locks
3)identify the NEW neutral conductor with white tape at both panel and receptacle.
4)maintain the bare equipment ground.

You realize that you will no longer have a intact dryer ckt.
 

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Dryers are a 240/120v system. if you open up your dryer plug you will have 2 hots a neutral and a ground. To convert it over you would have to get a single pole 30A breaker. Remove the red wire from the 2pole30A breaker and cap it off with a marrete. Put your new breaker in and put the black wire under that and you will have what you need.

Darren
 

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Not completely true.
Many of the older homes were wired with a 2 load carrying conductors plus an equipment ground only.
Like I said, he did not give all the necessary info.
 

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Not completely true.
Many of the older homes were wired with a 2 load carrying conductors plus an equipment ground only.
Like I said, he did not give all the necessary info.
Actually, the three wire dryer circuits are two hots and a neutral. The exception was that the dryer chassis was allowed to be grounded through the neutral as long as the circuit originated at the service panel and not from a subpanel. The wiring was to be three insulated wires or SE type cable.
 

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I've seen them both ways, and admit the manner you mentioned with three insulated conductors is correct.
As I stated .. we did not get all the pertinent info from this person, so as a precaution ... I assumed the "worst"....
 

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So those old dryers with two hots and a ground only were a straight 240V load then. All the controls and motor ran off 240V?
 

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So those old dryers with two hots and a ground only were a straight 240V load then. All the controls and motor ran off 240V?
Possibly, but I would suspect it more likely they were miswired. I see many older dryer receptacles miswired with 10/2 wire. I even see new installations done the same way by people who don't know any better.
 

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That's true, and from a DIYer...I took the safe route....ya' never know what they did.....
Take Care...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
re-thinking

Actually, the three wire dryer circuits are two hots and a neutral. The exception was that the dryer chassis was allowed to be grounded through the neutral as long as the circuit originated at the service panel and not from a subpanel. The wiring was to be three insulated wires or SE type cable.
I did some research into dryer receptacles and read an article that indicated that yes, the older homes w/3 wire recepts. did use the dryer chassis as a ground. The articles emphasized the importance of disconnecting that ground if converting to a 4-wire plug.

I'm thinking this is over my head and I should get a licensed electrician if I want to change out a 2P breaker to a single phase, re-wire a receptacle, etc. I also want it to be easy to re-convert if/when I sell the house. Do any of you know if this would be against any codes? I do have the NEC here in my office if you could refer me to roughly the right section.

Thanks.
 
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