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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

Here is the story. Last night my power went out. Long story short my main breaker was tripped and my Central Air Unit was not working. After troubleshooting I found my fuses were shot on the unit. Replaced them this morning. The Fan on the unit was blowing and air was coming out of the vents "not cold air". Then I had a service tech do a diagnostic. He advised the capacitor was shot. He advised that replacing the capacitor should fix my problem. I just replaced the capacitor and nothing has changed. The unit is still blowing air but not cold air. What could be the problem? The temperature by me is 90+ and I have two little girls who are sweating in this hot house. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated. By the way the unit is 20 years old. :(

-Jason
 

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Could be the compressor windings are open.

This is a somewhat common situation when a tech only does diagnostics. There can always be other problems, that don't show until the first bad part is replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
tech came out and said the compressor is shot, now on to finding a new unit, any suggestions i have a 3 ton unit now. was quoted 1500 for a new one installed
 

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tech came out and said the compressor is shot, now on to finding a new unit, any suggestions i have a 3 ton unit now. was quoted 1500 for a new one installed
Replace both units. Don't use the old indoor coil over, unless they can show your an AHRI rating for it matched to your new outdoor unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am having a 3 ton unit replaced by my cousin for a great price $900 for a york guardian. I read some terrible reviews online over at Furnacecompare.com York is rated almost dead last and on the site they have recent customer testominals. They have amana, rudd, rheem, american standard, tempstar, trane, weatherking, carrier, goodman, ducane in that order to name a few and york last. Should I be worried?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Vin some people on her are saying its not so much the brand that matters its the installer, what do you think? do you really think rheem is that much better than york?
 

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Most reviews you'll find on furnaces and central A/C's are not reliable. Because most of the problems stem from a bad/improper install.

The installation is more important then the brand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks "beenthere" I have read that on here also, that the install is more important than the unit. With that said, being that my old ruud unit is 20 plus years old, do I need to replace the indoor coil cover? What is the proper procedure when replacing an old unit like this? I am leery my relative is going to do a good job? What questions should I be asking him about the install? Thank you guys for all of your help, it is greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is a summary of the work to be done in an estimate from a local HVAC company? Does this look right?



REMOVE OLD CONDENSER
SET GIBSON 3 TON CONDENSER ON NEW PAD

BRAZE LEAK CHECK & VACUUM LINESET
HOOK UP ELECTRIC TO DISCONNECT & WHIP

PERFORM START UP
 

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You should replace the indoor coil at the same time. If you don't match the system there is no way to tell what efficiency or tonnage you may end up with.
 

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Remove and replace any and all refrigerant liquid line driers. That needs to be on there as well. If no filter driers are there to begin with, add them. One low side and one high side. Best place for the low side is outside close to the condenser on the suction line (low pressure vapor line) and the best place for the high side (high pressure liquid line) is a few feet before the evaporator coil on the inside of your home.



Filter driers catch any possible debri in the lineset, just liike a fuel filter on a car. Mandatory for compressor burn outs.
 

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Remove and replace any and all refrigerant liquid line driers. That needs to be on there as well. If no filter driers are there to begin with, add them. One low side and one high side. Best place for the low side is outside close to the condenser on the suction line (low pressure vapor line) and the best place for the high side (high pressure liquid line) is a few feet before the evaporator coil on the inside of your home.



Filter driers catch any possible debri in the lineset, just liike a fuel filter on a car. Mandatory for compressor burn outs.

The suction filter must be removed... Do not leave one in the system....

And a suction filter is not mandatory for a burn-out...
 

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conflicting opinions??
I have seen too many people leave a suction filter in the system only to cause problems.

If you want to add one, then make sure you remove it when it's job is done. They are not to be left in there permenent....
 

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I have many units out there that no suction filter was ever installed after a burn. They are still ticking after many years of service....

Do a proper clean-up and no need for a suction filter, If one is added tho, make sure that it is removed.
 
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