[u2slow]

Wasn't sure what forum to ask in, but because of the flashing detail, I'll ask here. :smile:

Rustoleum says it won't bond to metal, but I need to install perimeter drip flashing on this plywood deck. Does anyone have success with running the coating over the flashing?

Any success using tape and/or primer products from other coating systems?

 

[chandler48]

Got pictures??

 

[u2slow]

The actual deck has torch-on (to be stripped)... but this is a piece of the flashing mocked up on my porch, which is the same idea.

 

[XSleeper]

I guess I dont quite get why you need to paint it when you can have flashing made in about any color there is.

 

[u2slow]

It's not the colour. It's to run the coating over top to shed water off the deck properly.

 

[XSleeper]

Sorry but it looks like a completely hair brain idea if you are planning on coating a plywood deck with X10, and if you think it will seal the edges of your plywood and the edges of your flashing. You will have a mess in under 2 years.

There is a reason why plywood decks are either torch down or fiberglass mat.

X10 is about the same thing as Behr Deckover, which is a failed product with a class action settlement. Without knowing your entire plan I cant say much more but you better back up and rethink that plan if you are doing what I think you are.

 

[joecaption]

Not sure why your not just using composite lumber over the framing instead of trying to cover plywood with anything that will be nothing but a maintaince issue.

 

[carpdad]

After sanding and priming, paint will stick to metal like the drip edge, although paint is not something you can walk over and such. Paint also does not bridge over joints. It looks like you lived with painted plywood deck but it goes against my experience. In nj and such a deck will rot quickly, and goes double for a roof. For a roof (about the same for deck), drip edge then some kind of roofing over the edging and the roof deck. I used modified roll roof over a low slope roof. I used the same cold adhesive over the sheetmetal edging and the roofing overhangs the edge by about one inch. The adhesive has worked very well at the eave, although the field seams had to be patched here and there. Check the nume but I think it is called sbs rubber modified asphalt roll roof. It is very doable diy with cold adhesive. I think there are peel and stick as well but don't know it's history.


Don't know how your patio deck looks that clean. Anyway, always some slope for water to drain.

 

[u2slow]

Sorry but it looks like a completely hair brain idea if you are planning on coating a plywood deck with X10, and if you think it will seal the edges of your plywood and the edges of your flashing. You will have a mess in under 2 years.

There is a reason why plywood decks are either torch down or fiberglass mat.

X10 is about the same thing as Behr Deckover, which is a failed product with a class action settlement. Without knowing your entire plan I cant say much more but you better back up and rethink that plan if you are doing what I think you are.

I was mainly looking for first-hand experience with the X10 product. I did see the class-action lawsuit.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/class-action-lawsuit-against-rust-oleum-deck-restore/

I further emailed rustoleum directly for a comment on bonding to flashing, and they said it won't even work well on plywood. :vs_unimpressed: I'm going to see if I can return it... although its been a long time now since I bought it.

Not sure why your not just using composite lumber over the framing instead of trying to cover plywood with anything that will be nothing but a maintaince issue.

This deck needs to shed water i.e. stay dry underneath. Its also a car-port.

After sanding and priming, paint will stick to metal like the drip edge, although paint is not something you can walk over and such. Paint also does not bridge over joints. It looks like you lived with painted plywood deck but it goes against my experience....

Don't know how your patio deck looks that clean. Anyway, always some slope for water to drain.

The sample pic is separate covered porch. The deck that needs coating is built the same, approx 400-500sqft, but not as good condition. I'm going with a paint-on type product so that any patching can be a simple DIY task. It will likely be the last coating this existing plywood will get.

I'm aware of an alternate product called Ducan Tufdeck that I will look into.
https://www.ducan.com/deck-coating/constructing-your-deck.php
(I thought the X10 was a competing/similar product when I purchased). I'm open to other paint-on suggestions as well.



Thanks for all the feedback so far.

 

[carpdad]

What you want, i can't agree, although I am neither pro nor tried your way. What I gathered over time is this: easy application and easy maintenance are direct opposites of weather durable. Also, if you must, the drip edge wasn't there before so don't add it now.

 

[u2slow]

What you want, i can't agree, although I am neither pro nor tried your way. What I gathered over time is this: easy application and easy maintenance are direct opposites of weather durable. Also, if you must, the drip edge wasn't there before so don't add it now.

The old setup is torch-on with a cant strip for a raised edge, and then two scupper drains. That has its own problems... collection of water and debris. If I don't use a drip edge, the plywood edges and fascia wont last.

I now have two emails back from Rustoleum. One saying its inappropriate for plywood. The other saying I should return it for refund. Hopefully that goes well and I can move onto a better product/system.

 

[chandler48]

It looks to be a prime candidate for fiberglas cloth and resin. There is a product, although the name escapes me, where the fiberglas comes in 6' long rolls, "X" feet long. A resin is laid down and the cloth is pressed in, and a final "walk" surface is applied over it all. I built a deck for a guy once who used plywood as a final decking and he used that fiberglas coating. Worked well and didn't leak below at all.

 

[u2slow]

It's too big a deck for fibreglas to last. BTDT.

 

[u2slow]

This tedious project came to a close just as the forest fire smoke from WA rolled in mid-Sept. The roll-roofing on the upper part was just as big a job.

There's some 20gal of X10 and X25 on there now. Nearly 400 sqft. Thank goodness I scored most of it at half price. I used drywall mesh tape on all the plywood seams, and the drip edge. No leaks (yet) Lol!

First pic doesn't have two full coats yet - you can see the tint variation between the X10 and 25.