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163 Posts
Wussup guys!
I was helping a friend with his all electric packaged unit. His heater didn't work and he asked me to come by and check it out. I am currently a hvac student and been going to school a little over year and half. So I check his unit out , found out the wiring was wrong on the blower relay and also when I was checking out the heat sequencer it just fell apart. LOL, Anyways I got all that up and running by replacing the blower relay and heat sequencer. He had 2 other issues, one the disconnect box was sitting on the floor and the wires going out of the disconnect box to the unit were just bare wires and not piped in flex! LOLLL!! I fixed that and hell we just installed a new disconnect box with new whip to the unit also.
The last thing was the drain pipe. He had a 1/2 inch copper pipe attached to the drain pan inside the unit. Then there was a p-trap outside the unit with a slightly extended straight on one side to attach to the copper pipe inside the unit. The p-trap was swagged on the extended end to attach to the copper pipe but it was just attached and not sealed or soldered together. Just lose. So I told him we'll change the pipe also. I also wanted to change the pipe because it looked like it was leaking as the fiberglass board underneath the blower fan assembly was all wet and moldy.
So I check out the pipe and it seemed like it just needed to be turned and come out. LOL , I took it out and at the end of the pipe seemed like it was parts of the drain pan. LOLL , I looked closer and the drain pan is all rusted out!
The pipe I pulled out left a hole now in the Drain pan. So we looked at it and were like let's just put some plumbers putty and a 3/4 pvc pipe for now and close up. We gotta figure out a way to change the drain pan. So as we were working on it, lolll more of the drain pan on one side broke and came apart! The drain pan is made out of copper. LOLLLLLLL :laughing:
So long story short.. We gotta change or rebuilt the drain pan. I did this work yesterday and I was thinking of posting here to get your guys feedback and also I am going to ask in school on Monday. I know I gotta remove the blower assembly out and the electric heater box. The unit I think is a Nordyne. The model number of the unit is completely faded. I can't tell what unit it is. The only thing that points me to the units brand is the electric heater sticker says that the electric heater in the unit can only be used on a Nordyne unit.
This is what I am thinking of doing, tell me if I am on the right track. If I remove the blower assembly and heater assembly and break up the rusted drain pan. Also clean everything up. I can just get a drain pan and slide it into place. Then I can use some caulking and seal the edges that touch the evaporator coil and other sides to seal the drain pan corners. I measured the drain pan more or less. The drain pan runs 2 ft long and it is 4" wide from the coil. So I may have to buy a regular drain pan 2 ft long and maybe cut it for width wise? I am not sure. LOL. Anyways I hope this doesn't involve removing the coil to do the job. That is going to be a lot of work. His unit is very old. I think its 12-15 years old or maybe older. I don't know. But if he can just do something as a temp fix to get by for another 2 or 3 years. Then that will be good as he will just replace the unit later. See all the pics. LOL , have fun laughing at the putty dam we made at the drain pan. Damn, the dam didn't do anything , the unit is still leaking. LOLL
let me know what you guys think!
I was helping a friend with his all electric packaged unit. His heater didn't work and he asked me to come by and check it out. I am currently a hvac student and been going to school a little over year and half. So I check his unit out , found out the wiring was wrong on the blower relay and also when I was checking out the heat sequencer it just fell apart. LOL, Anyways I got all that up and running by replacing the blower relay and heat sequencer. He had 2 other issues, one the disconnect box was sitting on the floor and the wires going out of the disconnect box to the unit were just bare wires and not piped in flex! LOLLL!! I fixed that and hell we just installed a new disconnect box with new whip to the unit also.
The last thing was the drain pipe. He had a 1/2 inch copper pipe attached to the drain pan inside the unit. Then there was a p-trap outside the unit with a slightly extended straight on one side to attach to the copper pipe inside the unit. The p-trap was swagged on the extended end to attach to the copper pipe but it was just attached and not sealed or soldered together. Just lose. So I told him we'll change the pipe also. I also wanted to change the pipe because it looked like it was leaking as the fiberglass board underneath the blower fan assembly was all wet and moldy.
So I check out the pipe and it seemed like it just needed to be turned and come out. LOL , I took it out and at the end of the pipe seemed like it was parts of the drain pan. LOLL , I looked closer and the drain pan is all rusted out!
The pipe I pulled out left a hole now in the Drain pan. So we looked at it and were like let's just put some plumbers putty and a 3/4 pvc pipe for now and close up. We gotta figure out a way to change the drain pan. So as we were working on it, lolll more of the drain pan on one side broke and came apart! The drain pan is made out of copper. LOLLLLLLL :laughing:So long story short.. We gotta change or rebuilt the drain pan. I did this work yesterday and I was thinking of posting here to get your guys feedback and also I am going to ask in school on Monday. I know I gotta remove the blower assembly out and the electric heater box. The unit I think is a Nordyne. The model number of the unit is completely faded. I can't tell what unit it is. The only thing that points me to the units brand is the electric heater sticker says that the electric heater in the unit can only be used on a Nordyne unit.
This is what I am thinking of doing, tell me if I am on the right track. If I remove the blower assembly and heater assembly and break up the rusted drain pan. Also clean everything up. I can just get a drain pan and slide it into place. Then I can use some caulking and seal the edges that touch the evaporator coil and other sides to seal the drain pan corners. I measured the drain pan more or less. The drain pan runs 2 ft long and it is 4" wide from the coil. So I may have to buy a regular drain pan 2 ft long and maybe cut it for width wise? I am not sure. LOL. Anyways I hope this doesn't involve removing the coil to do the job. That is going to be a lot of work. His unit is very old. I think its 12-15 years old or maybe older. I don't know. But if he can just do something as a temp fix to get by for another 2 or 3 years. Then that will be good as he will just replace the unit later. See all the pics. LOL , have fun laughing at the putty dam we made at the drain pan. Damn, the dam didn't do anything , the unit is still leaking. LOLL
let me know what you guys think!
