[KyMike]

Last year we had our deck replaced and in the process the existing switch to our pool light had to be eliminated. The guy doing the work decked over the location where the existing switchbox was before I could get new conduit/wiring to it. We just had the pool resurfaced and I decided to run conduit around the exterior of the deck and penetrate it close to where the original wiring still is. So now I've got the conduit run and the old junction box is about 2' away from the new 1/2" conduit. I like to connect a piece of 3/4" non-metallic conduit that I've got directly to the 1/2" metallic conduit if I can instead of coming into a box or conduit body on one end with the metallic and out the other end with the non-metallic. It'll be going directly into the old metallic box with all the connections in it and I don't have any slack from the pool light to extend it further. How can I do that and what connections and reducers do I need?

Thanks!

Mike

 

[InPhase277]

I'm no pool expert, but others here are very knowledgeable on the subject. But I will say this: anytime you are doing pool wiring, whether it be pumps or lights, it is not to be taken lightly. This is not an area where "good enough" is good enough. You might rig a light in a garage with minimal danger, but in the pool, these things have to be top notch. Even for the low voltage pool lights.

 

[KyMike]

Pool ligth

Yeah, I'm not running the wire or making the connections; I'll let a more qualified person than I do that. My question is just how to connect a piece of 1/2" metallic conduit to a piece of 3/4" non-metallic flexible conduit.

 

[220/221]

You need to work on your written communication skills. I couldn't decipher the first post.

My question is just how to connect a piece of 1/2" metallic conduit to a piece of 3/4" non-metallic flexible conduit

Even in this seemingly simple query you leave questions.

!/2" metallic condut??? EMT or rigid? (threaded or not if rigid)

Simply build an adapter with a 3/4 flex connector, a 3/4 to 1/2 reducing bushing, a 3/4" rigid coupling and whatever 1/2" fitting for the metallic pipe.

 

[KyMike]

It's EMT. Any other questions 220/221?

Mike

 

[220/221]

Make a single fitting with 4 parts.


1/2" emt connector......1/2" to 3/4" reducing bushing......3/4" threaded coupling......3/4" flex connector.

 

[KyMike]

Thank you 220/221. Do I need to worry about the fact that I'm going from EMT to plastic and then into a metal box with rigid conduit out to the pool? I'm wondering about losing the ground to the conduit that goes to the pool light. There will be a ground wire from the GFI power down to the wire in the light. I tried to find some 1/2" Greenfield but the Orange and Blue stores around here didn't have any short pieces of it, only full boxes.

Thanks again,

Mike

 

[evapman]

Thank you 220/221. Do I need to worry about the fact that I'm going from EMT to plastic and then into a metal box with rigid conduit out to the pool? I'm wondering about losing the ground to the conduit that goes to the pool light. There will be a ground wire from the GFI power down to the wire in the light. I tried to find some 1/2" Greenfield but the Orange and Blue stores around here didn't have any short pieces of it, only full boxes.

Thanks again,

Mike

Mike,
Use metal liquid flex as in Air conditioner whip, the ground will be intact if a ground wire in not ran with new wires.:thumbsup:

 

[220/221]

Code says the pool light needs an insulated ground back to the panel and technically, it must be unbroken all the way to the pool light JB.

Don't rely on the conduit as a ground, pull a green #12 in there and, if it's not continuous, make the splices bulletproof. The ground to the pool light is the most important conductor in there.

We always pull grounds in my area. NEC says you can use conduit for ground in some cases. Pool wiring is not one of them.

 

[Termite]

Don't forget that the pool light's wet niche must be bonded to the equipotential bonding grid. If not directly connected to the niche, the metal conduit should also be bonded to the grid (not just the grounding system). I'd avoid metal conduit anywhere near a pool. Chlorine issues as well as the bonding issues could be problematic.

 

[Speedy Petey]

Are you saying the flex is coming right from the pool light?
If not what is coming right from the light.

You CANNOT come right form the forming shell to a switch box. You MUST use what is called a deck box. This is a very specific box that the conduit from the forming shell terminates in. If the conduit from the forming shell is PVC (flex is NOT allowed here) then you MUST also pull in a #8cu bond with the cord from the light.
This is only part of the setup. Please give us some more details and we can go from there.

InPhase is quite right. This is nothing to take casually. Do it right or don't do it at all and have a pro do it.

 

[KyMike]

Are you saying the flex is coming right from the pool light?
If not what is coming right from the light.

You CANNOT come right form the forming shell to a switch box. You MUST use what is called a deck box. This is a very specific box that the conduit from the forming shell terminates in. If the conduit from the forming shell is PVC (flex is NOT allowed here) then you MUST also pull in a #8cu bond with the cord from the light.
This is only part of the setup. Please give us some more details and we can go from there.

InPhase is quite right. This is nothing to take casually. Do it right or don't do it at all and have a pro do it.

I will be calling a qualified electrician to complete the hookup. All I am doing is running the conduit in an attempt to lessen the cost. I've done nothing with the light and it was working fine before the old deck was torn out and the new one built. I'm capable of doing this part of it except for 1 detail which is connecting the new conduit to the existing "deck box". It is a metal box with a full face plate on it that was installed when the original wiring to the light was done. If I need to replace that box, I can. The electrician can tell me that. My question is in the red outlined box on the attached image. Can I run a 2' piece of metallic flex greenfield between the new conduit and the existing connection box? I hope this helps and thanks for the replies, each of you. I appreciate your concern.

Mike

 

[220/221]

Can I run a 2' piece of metallic flex greenfield between the new conduit and the existing connection box?

Under the deck is "outside" so use sealtight flex. As long as the existing pool light box is accessible, you can use it.

Remember that code wants the insulated #12 ground run unbroken to the panel. If you are not going to do that, please do whatever you can to insure a good ground.