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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
good evening all,
I really need some help here... I have a Bodine electric gear motor and don't know how or what I need to operate it. I bought this motor used off ebay.
I need it's 8 RPM's and 175 lb's of torq to run my wood working rotisserie.
Here is the info on the motors plate.
type: 32D3BEPM. W4
NO: 147PH5035
VOLTS: 130
AMPS: .71
HZ: DC
HP: 1/12
TORQ: 175 LB-IN
RPM: 8
RATIO: 312.4 to 1
I'd appreciate any advice, as I am burned out on researching this topic. As usual Iv'e read so much conflicting material I don;t know what to think.
Thanks for any input. or if you have any better ideas. Thank you. Gene Machine Moulder Tool Tool and cutter grinder Toolroom


Machine Machine tool Tool Wood Planer
 

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You need a 130 volt DC power supply. Motor is rated at 3/4 amp so I think I would be looking for a 2 amp supply.
Google will find you all sorts of them.
10 car batteries in series would do it.
 

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If you feed 120 vac into a bridge
Rectifier you will have 120vdc.
You will need fuses front and rear.
BUT
This is NOT something for a newby
to attempt.
This is potentually dangerous stuff.
And should only be done by an,
experienced electrician !
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
130 volt dc Please take a look

OK, after some great answers, I found these in my price range...
please keep in mind, I'm not that concerned on controlling the speed...
I just need the darn thing to work at it's rated rpm's and torq.
Can anyone tell me if any of these would be ok? thanks
My bodine gear motor is 130vdc 0.71 amps 1/12 hp
The blue box is a Con-Avionic power supply r135.laf5562
130-140 volts adjustable power supply.
input volts: 105-125 vac
input freq: 48-62 cps
out put volts: 130-140 vdc 100ma

The other is on eBay, and simply states it's a "130volt dc motor controller power supply used with a scientific 2.75 h.p. permanent magnet motor"
Sorry for the lack of info. If you need to know other things, please let me know.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the search is over!

I was fortunate to be working (repairing their steam boiler) at one of our accounts this week, and bumped into the plants electrical guru. Needless to say, I talked to him about my situation, and before I knew it, he dug out an old driver that was no longer used. One of the fuses holders on front was broken so he wired in a complete new inline type fuse that now resides inside the box.
He wired in a ac plug and showed me where to wire in my motor.
The thing works great. THANK YOU KURT...
After giving him a six pack of appreciation, I hurried home to test it on my particular motor. I couldn't be happier. What a deal. Thanks to all that chimed in on this posting, your knowledge is very appreciated as well.:vs_karate:
 

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Not if you leave out the filter cap !

Just the bridge.
Leaving out the filter cap would not work.
A bridge simply flips the negative 1/2 cycle waves up on the positive side. The result is an extremely choppy dc wave which goes from 0v to peak twice in a cycle. You can't really do anything with that. Connected to a motor which is expecting a smooth DC current, I doubt you would get much more than a lot of vibration and if it turned at all it wouldn't get anywhere near its rated output with the voltage zeroing out twice a cycle.
 
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