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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. I'm new to routing and just ordered some eagle america architectural bits. I wanna make some floor, wall and ceiling molding/trim. Here's the specs:
  • (C) Cutting Depth: 5/16"
  • (D) Large Diameter: 1-1/8"
  • (L) Cutting Length: 1-5/8"
  • (B) Bead Diameter: 1/4"
  • Overall Length: 3-1/2"
  • Shank Size: 1/2"
I plan on using wood strips with a width of 7/8, and 1 3/4 height, softwood. My fear is that the router will just snap the wood into pieces, but I have no idea. I don't have the bits or the wood yet so that's why I'm asking and not just testing it myself.
Thank you
 

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Naildriver
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Most routers are 1/4" shank, so make sure yours will handle the larger 1/2" bit. What will you be holding your router in? A table, adjustable table insert in a table saw? What type fence do you have to run the wood against?
 

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I hope you have a router table with a fence. It's not going to be possible to freehand moulding. It will also take a pretty powerful router (essentially you are simulating a shaper here). Go slow and be sure you're feeding the wood into the the bit against the rotation. Keep your hands away from the spinny part. You may need to slow down the router speed with the higher diameter bits.
 

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The spec sheet shows that router is variable speed and 1/2 or 1/4 collet. Thats good. Other than that my opinion is anything Skil is a POS.

For material, use poplar or soft maple.
 

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Route small sections at a time and depends on hard or soft wood. You want least chatter possible and some feather blocks to hold the material to the bit. You should not do this without mechanical helpers to hold the material down and against the bit. That table itself should be fastened to more stable table. Make sure the table itself will not move while youre using it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Route small sections at a time and depends on hard or soft wood. You want least chatter possible and some feather blocks to hold the material to the bit. You should not do this without mechanical helpers to hold the material down and against the bit. That table itself should be fastened to more stable table. Make sure the table itself will not move while youre using it.
Yes thanks. I just built a stronger work table and will incorporate the R table to sit firmly on it or in it. It’s softwood. The table has feather boards as well.
 

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In a little over my head
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Couple of things:
I haven't used a bit like that, but I've made quite a bit of my own molding. Start small, with a less elaborate bit. Get the feeling of running the router table with a less ambitious profile.
Have you already sourced the 7/8" x 1 3/4" wood? Most 1x2's are 3/4 thick.
You don't have to remove all the wood in one pass. Go in stages, moving the fence. Unless the bit has a bearing on it, the final depth will be set by the position of the table fence.
Run all your wood at the same time. Duplicating the final cut, after you have moved anything is near impossible. If the profiles aren't identical, the joints and miters won't work.
 

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A shaper would work better if you have a lot to do.
 

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I'm here more to get some pointers, than to offer any. I don't do this often enough to be good at it. But I will say that for me, the hardest part is maintaining a constant speed past the bit. Slow down and it burns, speed up and it chips or looks rough. I always practice on a few scrap pieces before the final run.
 

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retired painter
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Most of the wood trim in my house is saw mill lumber run thru a planer and router. I don't own a router table. I have my router clamped to an old table saw [no fence] but have done relatively well just running the board along the roller bit. The only times I've had any issues is if I hit a knot that gets chewed and spit out.
 
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