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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

So I am redoing my shower, and finished installing the shower valve diverter using the pex crimp system. I set the valve body at the correct depth, and all is well...and then I ran into a problem.

The shower system im using has a long arm wall mounted rain shower head, and a handheld shower piece. Both have a male thread that would get screwed into a female port, naturally. And the finished product should be flush to the tile.

I purchased pex fittings that provide that female opening (pictured below), but I can't understand how to set the depth. Even if i bring the 2x4 as close as possible to the wall opening, the fitting is just a short elbow, so the male ends will not reach (at least in any way that I can imagine).

Is there something I am missing? An extension pipe?

Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated

(Please take a look at the provided pictures for reference)
 

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Naildriver
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Mount your shower drop ear right behind the cbu to a 2x4 mounted across the bay. I just installed this same valve for 4 body jets behind the user, rain head above and hand held to the right, I believe similar to what you have, I had one more port for the body jets. You will continue your pex rain head to approximately 80" above finished floor, and your hand held wherever you want it.

Edit: I believe your kit will have brass nipples, but if not you can buy them at box stores. I would not use iron nipples.

Wood Fixture Electrical wiring Hardwood Gas
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mount your shower drop ear right behind the cbu to a 2x4 mounted across the bay. I just installed this same valve for 4 body jets behind the user, rain head above and hand held to the right, I believe similar to what you have, I had one more port for the body jets. You will continue your pex rain head to approximately 80" above finished floor, and your hand held wherever you want it.

Edit: I believe your kit will have brass nipples, but if not you can buy them at box stores. I would not use iron nipples.

View attachment 694877
Thanks for the input! I plan to use all brass, however the shower head and handheld both have silver-colored male ends, so not sure what the material is. Plan is to teflon/dope the s**t out of it and 🤞
 

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Naildriver
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Teflon tape is nice, but use T+2 pipe joint compound. The length of nipple can vary with tile, from a close nipple to an "inch" measurement nipple. Maybe no nipple at all with the provided arms and fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Teflon tape is nice, but use T+2 pipe joint compound. The length of nipple can vary with tile, from a close nipple to an "inch" measurement nipple. Maybe no nipple at all with the provided arms and fittings.
I use teflon tape plus oateys pipe joint compound. It has been a solid combo so far.

The shower arms both have a male fitting that might have the depth of about an inch, so where would you think I should have my female fitting rest? I can manipulate the length using a nipple/coupling combo, but im struggling with where to have the female fitting rest (I know exact measurements will depend on my application)

I am just struggling with the vision - im thinking to myself, do i bring the female fitting out to sit flush with the tile, then screw in the arm? Then silicone the s**t of any space around the fitting?

Or would it be better to rest the female fitting further back like to the back of the go board, and just cut the hole bigger so the entire shower arm can go through the wall (granted this method would lose me some length, and i would worry even moreso about waterproofing)
 

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Any part of the plumbing that is outside the tile should be protected from water. As far as I know, that is always done with some kind of cover over the hole. Anything outside the hole is "finish" and inside is the "rough". Your first image is rough material where shower arm usually is screwed in, so counting for the threads in the arm, you would bury it as much as needed, depending on the length of the shower arm and how much headroom you have to turn it. Some rain heads need lot more room. The finish cover, or escuchon, covers the hole. Escuchon may have foam strip as water barrier or you need to cover around the finish material with silicone caulk or plumber's putty. Silicone is easier but putty is lot easier to remove if needed. The hole will not have a backer so whatever filler will be floating.
 

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Hi,

So I am redoing my shower, and finished installing the shower valve diverter using the pex crimp system. I set the valve body at the correct depth, and all is well...and then I ran into a problem.

The shower system im using has a long arm wall mounted rain shower head, and a handheld shower piece. Both have a male thread that would get screwed into a female port, naturally. And the finished product should be flush to the tile.

I purchased pex fittings that provide that female opening (pictured below), but I can't understand how to set the depth. Even if i bring the 2x4 as close as possible to the wall opening, the fitting is just a short elbow, so the male ends will not reach (at least in any way that I can imagine).

Is there something I am missing? An extension pipe?

Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated

(Please take a look at the provided pictures for reference)
Can you post your make and model # ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Any part of the plumbing that is outside the tile should be protected from water. As far as I know, that is always done with some kind of cover over the hole. Anything outside the hole is "finish" and inside is the "rough". Your first image is rough material where shower arm usually is screwed in, so counting for the threads in the arm, you would bury it as much as needed, depending on the length of the shower arm and how much headroom you have to turn it. Some rain heads need lot more room. The finish cover, or escuchon, covers the hole. Escuchon may have foam strip as water barrier or you need to cover around the finish material with silicone caulk or plumber's putty. Silicone is easier but putty is lot easier to remove if needed. The hole will not have a backer so whatever filler will be floating.
Thanks, this is very helpful. Im thinking then I will make the hole just big enough so that i can fit the finished arm into the wall just a tad as turn to tighten, then pack the hole with putty.
 

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Thanks, this is very helpful. Im thinking then I will make the hole just big enough so that i can fit the finished arm into the wall just a tad as turn to tighten, then pack the hole with putty.
Looking at images on Lowes site, you do not have adjustable trim- IMO, a bad design. I would take you female adpt. and screw the trim into it and calculate the finished make up length and set your pex adpt. accordingly.
Then at trim time dope and tape the male nipples, put a bead silicone on the back side of the trim plate to waterproof. Screw it on and hope your calcs worked out....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Looking at images on Lowes site, you do not have adjustable trim- IMO, a bad design. I would take you female adpt. and screw the trim into it and calculate the finished make up length and set your pex adpt. accordingly.
Then at trim time dope and tape the male nipples, put a bead silicone on the back side of the trim plate to waterproof. Screw it on and hope your calcs worked out....
Definitely a bad design; you should see the thickness of the valve eye roll

Seems like ok quality though and holds pressure 🤞

What you described is what I am thinking, just wasn't sure. The question I am uncertain of is, should i set it so that the body of the finished arm rests on the tile, or should i make the hole bigger so that the finished arm is recessed a tiny bit, and then putty/silicone around it?

Fortunately the wall behind it is just a separation wall between shower and tub, so i can cut that open and adjust the 2x4 forward or backward as needed
 

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I would cut the tile slightly larger than the pipe and try to mount the trim on the surface. An overlap is much better than flush when it comes to shedding water.
 
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Naildriver
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Take the bit, drill through a 2" thick piece of sponge. It will remain in the bit. You can dip the bit in water, the sponge will retain the water and will help keep the tile wet during the process.
 
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