[wmoriarty9]

I was removing some rotten corner trim on my house today, and beneath it was rotten plywood, pretty bad that I can poke through it with a finger...

What is my next steps? Im guessing it's not the best bet to just cover it with trim and move on.... Does this plywood extend to the siding? how big would t his piece be?

 

[Nealtw]

If you have drywall inside you may want to go inside for a further inspection before ripping siding off.

 

[wmoriarty9]

If you have drywall inside you may want to go inside for a further inspection before ripping siding off.

Looking from the outside and moving away insulation there is a plastic sheeting between the outside and drywall so the drywall looks fine.

However the beam in the corner is pretty much fully rotten....

Im confused why there wasn't any tyvex in this corner, yet other parts of my house I have replaced siding on had tyvex. AND it looks like there is tyvex behind the trim board that is right below this one.

Also what is the black sheet? is that similar to tyvex? a replacement to tyvex?

 

[carpdad]

The black sheet is tarpaper. Your house may be before tyvek.
You have to remove everything, corner trim, tarpaper and plywood, maybe 2-3' above and below the spot and see what you have to do about the corner frame inside. Even fairly old houses, the corners were built by sandwiching 2 2x4 lumber. So outside 2x4 may be rotten but inside may be salvageable. Then you cut out the rotted 2x4 and NOT cutting into inside 2x4. Then piece in the piece, new ply, new tarpaper and new corner trim. As long as adjacent wall studs and plywood are in fair shape, you don't structural issues such as supporting roof rafters.
If all of the corner frame is rotted, then it's bigger job of removing siding (maybe just enough to expose the frame and use wider trim) and replacing with new frame. Make sure your 2x4 are same width (1.5" vs 2") and the wrap (tarpaper or tyvek) is overlapped with old or tape the joint. May help by sliding in thin sheetmetal between siding and trim so water doesn't travel behind the trim. Caulk between siding and trim, before paint and after painting.

 

[wmoriarty9]

The black sheet is tarpaper. Your house may be before tyvek.
You have to remove everything, corner trim, tarpaper and plywood, maybe 2-3' above and below the spot and see what you have to do about the corner frame inside. Even fairly old houses, the corners were built by sandwiching 2 2x4 lumber. So outside 2x4 may be rotten but inside may be salvageable. Then you cut out the rotted 2x4 and NOT cutting into inside 2x4. Then piece in the piece, new ply, new tarpaper and new corner trim. As long as adjacent wall studs and plywood are in fair shape, you don't structural issues such as supporting roof rafters.
If all of the corner frame is rotted, then it's bigger job of removing siding (maybe just enough to expose the frame and use wider trim) and replacing with new frame. Make sure your 2x4 are same width (1.5" vs 2") and the wrap (tarpaper or tyvek) is overlapped with old or tape the joint. May help by sliding in thin sheetmetal between siding and trim so water doesn't travel behind the trim. Caulk between siding and trim, before paint and after painting.

The house was built 22 years ago. Not sure if that's before tyvex, but don't think it is since I've seen tyvex on other parts of the house. Attached you will see an image. At the tip of the arrow you can just see a white sheet poking out which is tyvex. From what I can tell it goes from there down to the ground.

 

[Nealtw]

The house was built 22 years ago. Not sure if that's before tyvex, but don't think it is since I've seen tyvex on other parts of the house. Attached you will see an image. At the tip of the arrow you can just see a white sheet poking out which is tyvex. From what I can tell it goes from there down to the ground.

Tar paper and tyvac are both still used today and sometimes on the same house, you may be looking at a a repair .

 

[carpdad]

I tend to assume older materials. I don't think there is any incompatibility problem between tyvek and tarpaper. You can use tarpaper to fix if it's cheaper, example. Tarpaper is stiffer (esp 30 lb) so maybe easier to slip under/over existing wrap for overlaps. Sheetmetal is even better for this. Tape repairs would be better with tyvek to tyvek. Check overhead and above and under and try to confirm why that area has that much damage.


Damages also have ranges. The photo looks bad but maybe not in person or with more light. Corner framing maybe traditional and with 3 or 4 studs. Maybe the holes are just spaces between blockings. I suggested some ways to repair but some rots may be just covered over. Depends on the person.:smile: