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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How exactly do I know, if shake during braking is coming from the front or rear?
My assumption is, if it's front, steering wheel shakes side to side.
If it's rear, entire car shakes.
In my case, it's 98 Grand Marquis, which is old style steering without R&P. RWD.
Car had brake shake when I bought her, so front rotors were turned, followed by rear ones, with good results. OEM rotors. New pads.
Then, rather quickly, front started shaking again, so I replaced rotors. What did real well, until about a month or so ago. Shake returned.
But, steering wheel is rock solid, car simply jerks back for, like as if brakes are skipping.

So I have NEW aftermarket rotors in the front(maybe 5K miles on them) and, OEM turned rotors in the rear.

Makes me think it's the rear ones. Considering, they are rather price, being very large rotors for large car, I don't really want to hunch replace them.
So, if SW is rock solid, no wobble, and entire car jerks back/for, it's rear ones?
 

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Check your calipers (and drums if you have them) for proper operation. Stop throwing new rotors at it, something is causing them to warp very quickly. Could be a stuck caliper, for instance.

While you have the calipers off to check, replace the guide pins and lube them up. The guide pin kits are cheap and it's good insurance. For a car that old if the calipers slide pins haven't been replaced then I'd bet a dollar that's causing the issue. Those pin boots degrade over time causing the pins to corrode and the grease to escape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You ever tried to sand rotors? I did. As a slave punishment, it's a good idea.

Guides are good, everything is lubricated. I side with bondo. Some rotors simply are that way.

And yes, rotors do not warp.
 

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Biggest issue I see with new brakes, is proper break in. If the brakes are done properly (i.e. pads, rotors, proper torque on the wheels, lubrication of the slide pins, and well functioning calipers), most people get on them too hard too early.


The Jeeps were notorious for under-sizing the brakes. My old 4Runner would get 100K out of a set of brakes.
 

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bedding was done as recommended by StopTech. I bed in rotors for years.
As noted, it's new rotors in the front and OEM turned in the rear. All 4 bedded in.

If the car is heavy and the binder undersized, you'll get unequal depositing. The only thing that I ever try to do is when I have to make a hard stop, I don't stop the car completely where it can transfer pad material irregularly. I just let the brakes slip slight like when at a light after a hard stop. Not much, but just stop a bit short of the car and let it slide.
 

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FWIW for years on multiple vehicles I've been running centric rotors that I buy from rockauto. Never had an issue. Make sure you lube pins etc. Theres a lot of crappy Chinese parts out there.

Sent from my SM-T387V using Tapatalk
 
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