[Mstrlucky74]

I know this is a DIY so I apologize. Hope someone can answer. We may do it ourselves. A roofer gave me this quote with the job he will do. I know installing the shingles the correct way is inportant. Is there anyway or question I can asked to check that he knows what he's doing when installing to make sure it's done properly? Thanks.

1.Rip and cart all roofing ( not roof sheathing)
2.pull 1 or 2 courses of siding off to install new step flashing and apron flashing
3.Install Ice Guard on roof edges up 3 feet on lower roof and dormer roof
4.Install deck guard on all sheathing surfaces (not felt this is a membrane which keeps water out also)
5.Front lower roof 4 sheets of plywood need to be removed and replaced with plywood not osb board
6.cut in new ridge vent on dormer roof and install new venting and edge cap
7. Install new certain teed laminate roof color of choice
8.Clean and cart all debris

 

[Nealtw]

Just vinyl siding or both?
plumbing vent boots?

are the rafter 24" or 16" on center?

 

[Mstrlucky74]

Just vinyl siding or both?
plumbing vent boots?

are the rafter 24" or 16" on center?

I don't follow.

 

[Old Thomas]

Ice and water shield is 3 feet wide so it sounds like one width. How wide is your overhang? NYS building code requires ice and water shield to extend to a point on the roof that is 2 feet measured horizontally inside the heated space. The roof slope makes a difference but in few cases is the requirement met with one width unless there is an overhang of less than 7 inches with a low sloped roof, less as the roof gets steeper. Generally 2 widths are needed.
They need to provide new drip and rake edges.
Make sure the new flashing is behind whatever underlayment is beneath the siding, not on top of it.
How far out on Long Island are you? The area on the eastern end of Long Island is the only place in NYS that is subject to higher wind resistance (hurricane winds). See what zone your community is in. It makes a difference with roofing.

 

[Mstrlucky74]

Ice and water shield is 3 feet wide so it sounds like one width. How wide is your overhang? NYS building code requires ice and water shield to extend to a point on the roof that is 2 feet measured horizontally inside the heated space. The roof slope makes a difference but in few cases is the requirement met with one width unless there is an overhang of less than 7 inches with a low sloped roof, less as the roof gets steeper. Generally 2 width are needed.

Is the ice shield important? Another roofer didn't mention it. He uses CertainTeed too and seemed like he knew his stuff.

 

[Old Thomas]

Is the ice shield important? Another roofer didn't mention it. He uses CertainTeed too and seemed like he knew his stuff.

Yes the code requires it. A permit is required for roofing in NYS, and the code requires I&W shield. It is standard.
What is the width of your overhang and the roof slope?

 

[Nealtw]

I don't follow.

You have two layers of siding, he will want to know how deep into the wall he needs to be. The a original flashing will be behind the asbestos shingles.

 

[Old Thomas]

Moisture can accumulate behind vinyl siding. The siding panels have weep holes to let it out. You don’t want that moisture to run down the wall and go behind the flashing.

 

[Mstrlucky74]

Yes the code requires it. A permit is required for roofing in NYS, and the code requires I&W shield. It is standard.
What is the width of your overhang and the roof slope?

Thanks. Overhang is about 3' see pic.

Also there is a 1-2" piece if white aluminum( hard to see in the pic) that runs along the front of the house where the roof meets the siding( the section of house with the two top windows). I believe this is the roof flashing, correct? This is not for the siding guy this would be for the roofing guy, correct?

 

[Mstrlucky74]

You have two layers of siding, he will want to know how deep into the wall he needs to be. The a original flashing will be behind the asbestos shingles.

Wait so right now I have the original shingles and vinyl siding on top of that. He will have to run the flashing under the original shingle?

 

[Old Thomas]

No way one width of ice and water shield is enough. Think about where your interior wall surface is on an outside wall where the ceiling and wall intersect. Measure 2’ from the wall on the ceiling. Go straight up, that point on the roof is the minimum point where the code requires ice and water shield.

 

[Nealtw]

Wait so right now I have the original shingles and vinyl siding on top of that. He will have to run the flashing under the original shingle?

Then you will be into professional asbestos removers.

 

[Nealtw]

No way one width of ice and water shield is enough. Think about where your interior wall surface is on an outside wall where the ceiling and wall intersect. Measure 2’ from the wall on the ceiling. Go straight up, that point on the roof is the minimum point where the code requires ice and water shield.

That lower roof is skirt, no heated wall under it and no heat in the garage. ?

 

[Mstrlucky74]

That lower roof is skirt, no heated wall under it and no heat in the garage. ?

No heat in garage.

 

[Mstrlucky74]

No way one width of ice and water shield is enough. Think about where your interior wall surface is on an outside wall where the ceiling and wall intersect. Measure 2’ from the wall on the ceiling. Go straight up, that point on the roof is the minimum point where the code requires ice and water shield.

He's telling me only 3' from roof edge but isn't it 3' from where interior wall is in roof? So if wall is 2' in from roof edge that's 5' at least of ice and water shield.

 

[3onthetree]

He's telling me only 3' from roof edge but isn't it 3' from where interior wall is in roof? So if wall is 2' in from roof edge that's 5' at least of ice and water shield.

That's what Old Thomas is describing, a little more than 5' because of the slope, so 2 rolls. Also in valleys if you have them.

The talk about the flashing under the 1st layer siding, that is an original ranch house from the mid50s-early70s where a 2nd story was added later. So the original old masonite or whatever is probably not under the vinyl on the 2nd floor where you are concerned with the lower roof meeting the walls. Did you check?

Did you copy verbatim a roofing bid in post#1 or are those your points? You didn't say if the roofers were brand certified. If not, make sure it says on the contract to "install per manuf guidelines and local codes." Then you 'should' have nailing covered, overhangs, starter course for eave and rake, underlay overlap and fastening, etc. Specifying the exact shingle is better than just "30 year." The type of ridge vent is important to specify, there are good and bad. If you do have a valley the method he lays. Type of boots and box vent for the lower roof. You'll want a bundle or two left on site because of your future work installing new pipe/vent penetrations or tearing up shingles when you do the windows and siding.

 

[carpdad]

I think 2 courses of ice dam barrier is good idea no matter what. Doesn't add that much cost and install is about the same as tar paper. Only the overlaps need the adhesive, and rest can be left with the paper. The ice guard does not have to be installed with cap nails. 3/8 or 1/2 staples are good enough to hold them in place to work, although some roofers will want cap nails for max safety.
New flashing under the vinyl only. Does not have to go under the oldest siding. I would ask for ice guard along the side as well as the front/side corner under the flashing.
Find out if you need ridge venting. Although written into the rules, may not be insisted. If you start to vent, also need to check how/condition of the insulation and air pathways in the attic. Size of soffit inlet. May be colder in winter. Have you had ice dams and big icicles?
Why change osb to ply? Is there damage? Could be extra unneeded work.
Also in contract: some words about not damaging the gutters, gutter guards, chimney flashing if you have one, checking the grounds for nails. Who takes out the permit? Liability insurance, which you should call and confirm. Talk to the roofer about all of these. Tell the roofer you are back-checking the contract. Ask for photo evidence of flashing work. Get a dirty eye, stare back.:smile: Stay courteous all times.