[jdub15]

Hey everybody, thanks for checking out my post. I just purchased a "new" home and am planning a project to replace the old wood siding with Hardie board. I've been studying the Hardie installation manual and I've logged a lot of hours in this forum. But there's a couple of spots I'm having trouble figuring out and I can't find the answers I'm looking for.

I'm posting 2 pics below.

First pic: How do I finish the fascia and soffit where they meet the roof? I'm assuming the fascia needs to be 1.5 inches off the roof, so does flashing go behind it? And the soffit, does it touch the roof or is there some sort of flashing or trim?

Second pic: The small ridge slanting towards the left of the pic, behind the chimney. Where it ends, it's against siding. What in the world do I do there?

Thanks in advance for your input!

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[joecaption]

Plan on removing all that old wood siding first?
If not, there's going to be a bunch of issues needing to be addressed.
Your siding would stick out past the fachia and gable vent in that chimney area.
Is there plywood or OSB under it?
Almost none of it was installed correctly.
Just like Hardie it should have been at least 2" up off the roof everywhere.
That left gable end in the first picture should have been about 1/2" up off that roof.
Your missing a kick out on the fake gable to direct the water away from the end of the roof.

 

[jdub15]

Yes, I see mistakes everywhere and the old wood is coming off. There's sheathing behind the siding. I'll be inspecting it once I get the old siding off to make sure there's no water damage. Just not sure what to do about those sections I questioned in my original post.


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[joecaption]

Feeling lucky?
Add your location to your profile and someone here may be close enough to stop by and make some suggestions.
I do it all the time.
Siding seems like it should be a simple job, the devil is in the details to make it water proof.
Far to many times I've seen even "pro's" mess this up.
Just a whole lot of little details so it's hard to hit all of them with a job like yours.
To name just a few:
Once the woods removed the whole thing needs to be wrapped with house wrap. (Tyvex type product)
I'd be replacing all those wooden outside corners with performed PVC corners or at least wrapping them with PVC coil stock after any rotted wood is replaced.
All soffit areas need to be covered with vinyl soffit and fachias wrapped with PVC coil stock.
Any place the siding is going to come close to the siding add PVC lumber, Z molding, J molding then the siding.
Gutters need to come off to do this right.
All end cuts on the siding need to be sealed.
There's not going to be anything cheap about doing this right and it's going to require some special tools.

 

[jdub15]

It's seems simple but I've done enough research now to know its not! I've got it split into manageable (I think) sections so I can tackle it easier. It's not a huge job, my house is mainly brick and it's only 1240 sq ft. But there's lots of angles and weird spots where the siding is.

As I mentioned, I'm using Hardie board, so not sure why you think all of the vinyl and pvc is needed, I'll have to do some more research on that. I was expecting to only need an alternative for the 45 degree corners because I hear Hardie is about impossible to cut at that angle.

I'll add my location in my profile, but I'm in north Dallas. If anybody could come out and take a look, or even offer any install help, I'm happy to work out a financial arrangement. Just a thought...


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[joecaption]

If your getting rid of the wood one can only figure your also trying to get rid of all the wood rot and constant up keep.
Why leave exposed wood?

 

[jdub15]

So you're saying the Hardie needs to be wrapped in vinyl/PVC?


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[PatChap]

I believe Joe is referring to the necessary trim boards. You will need new trim for the windows, corners and other details. The other alternative is to wrap your current wood trim.

 

[jdub15]

Ok, I gotcha. Would that be recommended over using Hardie trim? My plans were to use 100% Hardie, all siding, soffit and trim.


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[joecaption]

Hardie trim and soffits suck.
Brittle, has to be painted, royal pain to nail, expencive, you would soon find some would be broken before you picked it up and more would be broken before it was even installed.

 

[ChuckF.]

Ditto what Joe said. Long hardie rake trim boards are very hard to handle on a ladder, hard to cut at acute angles without breaking the point, and hard to nail and countersink the right depth. I'd suggest using PVC or Western Red Cedar for rake trim.

Same applies to vertical trim like on the chimney. There you can get by with hardie if you really want to try it, but after trying the alternatives you might not.

Read up on 'kickout flashing', you have a couple of spots appropriate for it.

Where the rake trim runs into the roof shingles in the first picture would be okay with PVC, otherwise there should be a small gap there assuming the shingles go under it.

Hardie siding is a great product otherwise.

 

[carpdad]

Search images for Gable Return Flashing. Where several planes meet and tricky to water proof, whole section is covered with one piece flashing. This is where copper that can be soldered into one piece stands out as a material. Since I don't have that much money, I make my flashing with heavy weight painted aluminum sheets and cut folds are taped with Eternabond tape. That one piece flashing is folded up against a vertical surface so that draining water goes over the flashing and to the ground.
Generally people don't know about this and the cheap roofing jobs exploit this: put the roofing tight against walls and trims, make it look neat, and the house owners think this is the way the houses and the roofing is supposed to look. Copper flashing is expensive and people generally don't want to see exposed metal sheets.
The photos show a wood siding that is in good condition. The paint/stain is not peeling and I see a smooth surface. I think it needs a roofing job, not siding. Hardiplanks have its requirements. One is it can't rest tight on surface, it must have 2 inch air space for drying out. So hardiplank will not get you the buttoned up look anyway.