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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi! I installed this Dryerjack 477 on roof 4 weeks ago and have been mulling over its placement ever since. I think I got it too low on roofline so that exhaust might get sucked up into that soffit vent underneath the eave. Nealtw told me it might be okay the way it is, but it will be difficult to move later on if there's a problem.

If it needs to be moved up I need to do it now before installing ceiling in bathroom below. Reason I didn't put it higher up is that previous owner's dryer was in house's lowest level before. It's vent run resembled an upside down U from dryer to wall exit, and upon removal I found out that it was completely clogged with lint.

I guess I'm asking for final opinions before I resume work on it this weekend. If I finish installing it the way it is, length of vent run from dryer exit (stackable) to roof cap will be about 5'. Pay no attention to yellow wire in photo; it's already been rerouted. Maybe I'm just being paranoid, but I don't want a lint fire.

Thanks for any replies!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Mr. Chandler! I will proceed then. And past time, too. I'm wanting to see how this small laundry area turns out, with washer on a 2 x 6 pedestal and dryer on a plywood shelf.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The best thing about the design is the back of laundry area and kitchen pantry are back-to-back. I'm making a large access panel there so I can get to washer box and dryer vent at dryer for cleanout from pantry side.
 

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The best thing about the design is the back of laundry area and kitchen pantry are back-to-back. I'm making a large access panel there so I can get to washer box and dryer vent at dryer for cleanout from pantry side.
After we discussed this I have been looking for any code thing on it.
It will leave as hot air but in the winter it will be cooling but heavy with moisture. ???
The only thing I could find anywhere is on a wall it should be 10 ft from an intake , how that applies to roof is anyone's guess.
I have seen what they do in a soffet vent and what code says for bath vents there is just wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I actually had an HVAC guy come out and look at it. He said I should have put the vent in the wall boards directly under that soffit vent in photo. That would have been even worse. I glued that vent well, though, with Black Jack roof cement. I'm betting I'd have to destroy it and the shingles around it now to remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is all I could find on it: "All other dryer installation regulations provided in the IRC must also be met. Notably, the dryer vent must not be within 3 ft of an opening into the building, including passive soffit vents."
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Work completed today. Two layouts for the dryer vent; I'm thinking of using the one in image 2530, because it's almost vertical and will be a smaller hole in the ceiling. I plumbed in a new split vent to replace vent pipe I removed when dryer roof jack installed. Vent pipe is vertical all the way up now, instead of horizontal above the washer box the way it was. I cut a few pieces to seal area around baffles, too. I glued them right at back edge of top plate, so fiberglass or spray foam insulation will cover the top plate. I have not yet air-sealed the baffles with Great Stuff.

I'm sure someone seeing these photos will see that whoever built the house gouged out a large hole in top plate for the vent. Should I add a wall stud there under the rafter resting on plate?

Before I completely seal off the soffit bay where dryer vent is, would it be feasible to attach a 1 x 2 to side of rafter and staple a baffle cut in half to it for some ventilation? Area directly to side of baffle and behind dryer vent would be boxed off with pieces of Foamular sheet insulation and well-insulated.

Thanks for any replies!
 

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