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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,

I'm a beginner working on building a 10'x10' shed. I've got my walls and rafters up and I'm gearing up to tackle the roof this weekend. I've got a whole mess of questions.

First the background:
  • 10'x10' shed
  • 4/12 Pitch Gable Rafter Roof 24" o.c.
  • 2x6 Fascia nailed on gable ends (no overhang outside of this)
  • Planning for 1" eaves and soffit covering on sides
  • Rafter tails plumb cut with 2x6 fascia board attached
Questions:
  • When I add a metal drip edge, does that go before or after felt paper?
  • Thoughts on vinyl vs. aluminum soffit?
  • Where should I nail the soffit, to the bottom of the fascia board or do I add a nailer somewhere?
  • How to I frame the ends where my plumb cut gable end fascia hits the side gable fascia? Do I just fill in the triangle that would be exposed with some cut wood? How is that trimmed?
  • Should I overhang my plywood on either the ends or sides of the roof? (I'm not adding gutters)
  • I probably just need a basic guide on how to install the soffit for a project like this if anyone has a good reference website or is interested in writing one. :thumbup:
Thanks again for all of those who have got me to this point and in advance for this BIG list of questions:thumbsup:
 

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What's the plan for siding?
Any reason why there's no plans for some over hang?
It sure helps to have one. The siding windows and doors will thank you.
Anything I build has at least 6" over hang on all sides to help keep the water from just running down the siding and over the windows. It also keeps the drip line further away from the siding at the bottom.
I install the drip cap first then the paper, reason being if there ever was a leak the water should run over it, not under it.
Simple enough to finish out the rafter tails on the ends. I just use a 2' level hold it so one end is touching the tip of the tail and hold the level, level and take a measurement from the level to the rafter at whatever length. it needs to be.
I wrap all my fascia's with coil stock.
I use mostly PVC soffit material because that's what's locally available but aluminum would work just as well. I prefer PVC because it's not as likely to get scratched as it's be transported and cut.
 

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Drip edge on the eave goes on first, then the felt paper, then install the drip edge on the rake (gable ends)

I would seriously consider adding an overhang. As Joe mentioned it really helps protect your siding, not only from the top but from splashback at the bottom.

Aluminum would be my choice for soffit. Although I though you indicated you didn't want an overhang? Do a google search on "how to install soffit" as it would explain much better than I could.

Plumb cut your gable fascia and butt it up against your eave fascia, cut off the little triangle that hangs below the eave fascia.

Plywood should end flush with the fascia board
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies so far :thumbsup:

I originally planned for a 6" gable end overhang, but thought it would be easier to just do a 1.5" overhang with a simple 2x6" fascia board nailed to the last common rafter. The rafters are up and the ridge board ends with the building, should I ladder build a rake and add it? Or just go with the 2x6"? The main driver was the extra work required for the overhang, both cutting soffit and the framing of the overhang.

Not looking to cut corners, but keep in mind this is a shed.
 

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If I understand correctly you have an overhang on the eaves but not on the gable ends? An overhang would be better, but a lot of sheds seem to be built the way you mention. I would wait to install the 2x6 fascia until you have your sheathing on.
 

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No over hang is why you almost always see rotted trim and T-111 siding.
Love it when I see people use 1X's then try and use 5/8 J moulding when there vinyl siding any building.
The water runs in behind the trim and rots out the siding.
 
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