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Thank you all for helping me out with picking paint, now I need to figure out which rollers and brushes to get.
I like buying quality stuff, things that will make my job easier. Here's the paints that I will be using.
-SW Cashmere/Opulence Eggshell - walls
-SW Eminence Flat - ceiling
-SW Proclassic SemiGloss - trim/doors

Here's few pics, I could use some pointers on how to paint the ceiling as it's huge, which direction to roll, there will be two coats.
Also how do I paint doors, all brush or smaller roller ?
I have whole winter to paint as I'm seasonal worker so I don't have to rush through the job.





 

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For the ceiling if your going to do 2 coats do 1 coat each way, but with that paint I don't think you will need 2 coats. On the first coat it will look like lap marks , but when dry they should go away, if not use second coat. I would use a 1/2" colossus roller with a good extension pole. I wouldn't cut in the ceiling since your going to paint the walls. Except for around the light, unless your going to take it down.

On the walls same roller with pole. Purdy makes a cut in brush that I like. I use a 2 1/2" angle sash brush.

Can use the same brush on the trim, but for the flats on the doors I would use a 4" roller with a microfiber roller cover.
 
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Get everything out of the room to be painted.
A whole lot easier to remove the light then to try and paint around it.
Get some real painters drop cloths, far easier to prevent splatter then try to clean it up after.
Learn how to use that sash brush and not have to use tape, faster, no chance of peeling off the paint.
Only place I might use tape is on the floor.
Remove those drapes.
Not going to add some color to those walls?
 
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Rollers: wooster 9in frame (I would actually use a 14 or 18" on the ceilings but it's more gear to purchase. As a diy, not knowing your strengths and abilities a 9 is a safe bet for you I think...)
I can't remember if you mentioned in either post whether or not you have texture. If so i'd , use a 3/4 " nap "Purdy white dove" or similar I do like wooster super fabs but it will shed a ton out of the wrapper. If not, 1/2".
2 1/2-3in brush square top or sash whatever you prefer. Purdy "swan" or "clear cut" works for me. Again, your preference. Medium stiff is the point. Walls need a little more stiffness than the trim (if textured) but your trim paint will self level so the same brush is fine for both.

Roll the ceiling the short way. Keep a wet edge and lay it all off in the same direction.

Then paint your trim. This way you can tape to the trim with some 3m 2080 orange core delicate surface tape and get a nice clean line when you paint your walls.
This is also the tape i'd use to mask your floor at the bottom of your base. Kinda pricey. 1 1/2" rolls or 1" of you suffer from "sticker shock" and wanna save a few bucks. I just find 1 1/2 makes my job easier. And labor is more expensive than tape.
A 4" micro fiber 1/4" nap cover would leave a pretty smooth finish on your doors (note: make sure you trim has NOT been painted in oil by the builder-- if it has, you have a little more prep to do) Look for a touch up kit from the builder in a garage or??? First.)
Remove your door knobs. Paint the doors and case work. Work from the inside out. Cut, then roll. Check back in 5 minutes or so and catch heavy edges and details before they set up. Thin coats. Keep a wet edge. If you miss something, let it dry and catch it when you do touch ups.

Tape off the case and base and paint your walls.
Don't slop it heavy on the tape. Tape is a guide, not a fail proof way to make a straight line. Too many times I've cleaned up someone else's mess because they slipped it in and wondered why it seeped under.

Happy painting!
 
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