DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So we are installing cabinets ourselves. It’s pretty straightforward not for a kitchen. Just some base cabinets and a tall utility one , and 2 uppers. For basement arena. The wood filler they gave us to put in between wall and pantry cabinet is 8 feet long which is great but it is 3 inches wide. We only need about 1 1/2 Filler. They ordered it at 3 so that we could cut to fit/ one problem we don’t have a table saw. We have circular saws, I think a box saw too. So I have called no hardware store or millwork stores will make even one cut especially since only 1 1/2 .
so any tips on how we cut this board to fit lengthwise ( preferably without losing a hand.)
Oh and we have asked everyone we know. No one has a table saw.
 

·
retired framer
Joined
·
39,816 Posts
So we are installing cabinets ourselves. It’s pretty straightforward not for a kitchen. Just some base cabinets and a tall utility one , and 2 uppers. For basement arena. The wood filler they gave us to put in between wall and pantry cabinet is 8 feet long which is great but it is 3 inches wide. We only need about 1 1/2 Filler. They ordered it at 3 so that we could cut to fit/ one problem we don’t have a table saw. We have circular saws, I think a box saw too. So I have called no hardware store or millwork stores will make even one cut especially since only 1 1/2 .
so any tips on how we cut this board to fit lengthwise ( preferably without losing a hand.)
Oh and we have asked everyone we know. No one has a table saw.
If you have a straight board about 20" long you can clamp it under the table of the saw and that will give you a fence just like a table saw.
When i haven't had clamps on hand i wave drilled thru the saw table and screwed it to the block.
You just have to make sure to measure at the front and back of the blade so there are the same.
the teeth on the saw one leans in and the next leans out.
Make sure you are measure from teeth that are leaning in.
Test cut on scrap.
634224
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,615 Posts
Do you have a hand held jigsaw? It can be done with it, but you have to really take your time.

Similar to this?

634225
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
It would be unusual if the trim piece that you need to cut is the same width at the top as at the bottom, so here’s how to cut a tapered filler piece using a circular saw.

Screw the 8’ trim piece to an 8’ piece of something moderately wide and thick, like a 2' wide piece of ¾” plywood, from the back side so that the front of trim doesn’t get marked (keeping the screws out of the way of the blade). Fill in beside the trim piece on top of the plywood with material that is the same thickness as the trim to create a flat surface for the saw. Then clamp a straightedge as required to create the tapered (or not) trim piece.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
You can make a rip cut using a hand held circular saw. Use the guide that comes with the saw. It you cut a bit big you can adjust it with a plane.
I submit you honor ... not many circular saws come with rip guides, usually extra cost accessories. And not many folks have block planes, never mind the blade is sharp and adjusted. That’s too bad,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
So we are installing cabinets ourselves. It’s pretty straightforward not for a kitchen. Just some base cabinets and a tall utility one , and 2 uppers. For basement arena. The wood filler they gave us to put in between wall and pantry cabinet is 8 feet long which is great but it is 3 inches wide. We only need about 1 1/2 Filler. They ordered it at 3 so that we could cut to fit/ one problem we don’t have a table saw. We have circular saws, I think a box saw too. So I have called no hardware store or millwork stores will make even one cut especially since only 1 1/2 .
so any tips on how we cut this board to fit lengthwise ( preferably without losing a hand.)
Oh and we have asked everyone we know. No one has a table saw.
Don't try to cut the filler on anything but a table saw.
Call some small time contractors and ask them if they'd do it for you.
If someone called me and asked, I'd do it for free.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,869 Posts
That should work. A slightly more redneck version of this, as Neal mentioned uses a couple of C-clamps to hold the guide board.

My 7 1/4" circular saw has the blade 1 1/2" from the edge of its base. If yours does too, you may be able to just screw a board onto the edge of the trim piece to use as a guide. Otherwise, you can screw together 2 other boards along their edges at 90 degrees to each other, and create a homemade 8' long wooden angle, and clamp one leg of the angle to the trim board, with the other leg of the angle sticking up along side of the trim board as a guide. You'll have to do it in steps, where you clamp it in the middle and at the end, cut up to the middle clamp, add another clamp behind the saw, remove the middle clamp and continue on until you get to the clamp at the end, and move the end clamp behind the saw and finish the cut. If you don't mind a couple of screw holes in the back of the trim piece, you can just screw the angle onto the trim board (just not where you're going to cut) and dispense with the clamps altogether.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,299 Posts
Circular saw with many teeth (at least 40 and more is better) can cut a clean edge. With the piece face down. As said, cut outside of the line, maybe with small bevel, and finish with plane. Can't be helped for the extra tools. You must have some of these tools. A secure guide can be made with fences on both sides of the saw plate. Making sure the saw doesn't bind with test cuts. Half inch ply, fence and plunge cut for clearance. Leave some uncut wood on both sides.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,615 Posts
Judging from the response from the OP he must have it now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Yeah we arent going to try and rip without a table saw. Most places we have called won’t do it if we didn’t purchase the product from them, liability. Cant find anyone we know with out a table saw. Really kicking myself and a little disappointed with designer for Ordering that when she knew the design was only for 1 1/2 filler. shame on me for not asking but she said just rip it down. I should have asked what t she meant by that. I mean most people don’t have a table saw, but I suppose if we weren’t installing ourselves that would be the installers job. I mean my hubby is pretty handy, framed, the basement, figured putting in a fee cabinets would t be this much drama.
we have space, might just have 3 inch filler, only adds 11/2. at this point whatever can go wrong with this basement project is going wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Yeah we arent going to try and rip without a table saw. Most places we have called won’t do it if we didn’t purchase the product from them, liability. Cant find anyone we know with out a table saw. Really kicking myself and a little disappointed with designer for Ordering that when she knew the design was only for 1 1/2 filler. shame on me for not asking but she said just rip it down. I should have asked what t she meant by that. I mean most people don’t have a table saw, but I suppose if we weren’t installing ourselves that would be the installers job. I mean my hubby is pretty handy, framed, the basement, figured putting in a fee cabinets would t be this much drama.
we have space, might just have 3 inch filler, only adds 11/2. at this point whatever can go wrong with this basement project is going wrong.
I don't know your situation, whether your in a city or the country,
but if you're in a populated area, you should be able to
find a contractor or handyman who will do it cheap or free.
There's guys advertising all over craigslist and facebook groups.
If you ship it to me, I'll cut it down for you and ship it back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
The whole point of a filler piece like this is to fit it after all the cabinets are in place. Neither you or the designer made a mistake. If you had received a 1.5” pre-cut piece the odds are that you would have needed something slightly different because some wall was out of plumb or the cabinets hadn’t been placed in exactly the anticipated place. I have a table saw, but the last time that I cut a trim piece this size I used a version of a circular saw (a track saw) to make the cut, just because I needed to have it wider at the top than the bottom. With the proper blade to produce a clean cut there have been several methods posted here that will produce the solution that you’re looking for.

Chris
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
435 Posts
yes saw this too, thought about. Wish we had more to cut. Only need one cut, expensive for one cut. But I suppose we saved money in other ways.
$38 bucks for one cut is expensive, but a little more to have a table saw permanently isn't. I recently sold a completely decent, but smaller, Skil table saw on Craigslist for $50. Perfect working order. May want to look there to see what you can find. Worst case, you could buy one, use it, then resell it back on Craigslist. It is a hassle to do that, but probably less so than trying to cut it down without one.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top