[Speedball]

I sort of like the idea of a Cobra or Mongoose ridge vent but am not sure if it does what it is supposed to do. On my 1950's 900 sq' home I put in all new continuous soffit vents and insulation in the attic but I just can't decide on the style of vent to use, ridge or the regular (box vents?) between every other rafter.

I sort of like the ridge vent for the easy install but it is hard to imagine they can pass air by looking at the design unless it was forced. Are these really used on the finer homes in America?

Heck, I even thought about building a large cupola of some kind and using it to help the natural ventilation.

Any roofers opinion would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Ed the Roofer]

If you use Cobra, use the Cobra Snow Country, which is modeled after the more premium and well reknown Shingle Vent II ridge Vent.

You do not have to vent the front entranceway dormer ridge either.

Ed

 

[Neo]

I've been looking into venting for a while. I'll be putting in Air Vent Shingle Vent II, based on what I've read, and the warranty (don't want to put a 30yr vent under a 50yr shingle...). Will be installing it next week, will try and postback on how it went.

 

[Ed the Roofer]

Use 2 1/2" to 3" ling Hand Roofing Nails for both the ridge vent and also the shingle ridge cap that gets installed on top of it.

Leave about 1/16th to 1/8th" of a gap in between each of the plastic ridge vent sections to control expansion and contraction.

Use a skill saw to cut the pieces if you have to miter any intersections with another opposing ridge line or valley intersection.

Cut the slot width to the size listed in the instruction sheet.

Thats about it, because it is pretty easy to install.

Oh, snap a chalk line on one side to keep the edge even and continuous from end to end.

Ed

 

[Neo]

Use 2 1/2" to 3" long Hand Roofing Nails for both the ridge vent and also the shingle ridge cap that gets installed on top of it.

Leave about 1/16th to 1/8th" of a gap in between each of the plastic ridge vent sections to control expansion and contraction.

Use a skill saw to cut the pieces if you have to miter any intersections with another opposing ridge line or valley intersection.

Cut the slot width to the size listed in the instruction sheet.

Thats about it, because it is pretty easy to install.

Oh, snap a chalk line on one side to keep the edge even and continuous from end to end.

Ed

I'll assume "ling" was a typo since I couldn't find a reference to ling hand nails :huh:? I got 3" roofing nails for the shingles, using 2 1/2" exterior grade screws to hold the vent in place, don't want them moving any. Need to check that they'll sit flush w/ the vent tops... If not I'll nail them.

Thanks for the tips!

Do you seal the bottoms when using them w/ architectural shingles?

 

[Ed the Roofer]

ling = long

Typo corrected.

Why are you using 3" nails for the shingles? That is way too long. (Or should I say Ling, LOL)

Unless you are going through 4-5 layers, which would not be allowed per codes, there is no reason to use that length for the field shingles.

If it is a new one layer roof being applied right over felt paper and the decking, 1 1/4" is perfectly fine.

Ed

 

[Neo]

ling = long

Typo corrected.

Why are you using 3" nails for the shingles? That is way too long. (Or should I say Ling, LOL)

Unless you are going through 4-5 layers, which would not be allowed per codes, there is no reason to use that length for the field shingles.

If it is a new one layer roof being applied right over felt paper and the decking, 1 1/4" is perfectly fine.

Ed

Sorry, 3" nails are only for the ridge shingles over the Shingle Vent II (couldn't find 2 1/2" so 3" it was). 1 1/2" via air nailer for the rest of the roof. Have 12,000 of them ready to go... 6 per shingle plus some extras.

One more day until the fun begins!

 

[Speedball]

Thank you so much. Maybe I can post another pic when it is complete.