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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there are numerous threads covering this topic but maybe my situation is different. So, paying no mind to the toilet flange during my tile installation the flange now sits a little less than 3/8" below the finished tile floor, whereas it was nearly flush with the old lauan and vinyl combo. The flange is screwed directly to the wood sub-floor. The toilet has a "stub" on it, maybe 4" long that would sit inside the flange hole. There was no wax ring around the flange. Can I simply just put the toilet back since the stub on the toilet will sit well inside the flange or do I need to add a wax ring, flange extender, or both, or......?

Also, in case my tile is not perfectly flat and level, are there shims or something of the sort to stabalize the bowl? Thanks in advance!
 

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#1 Installing tile over any linolium, or any form of 1/4 anything is a sure way to have the tile fail.
The floor should have been checked for level long before the tile went in.
But to ansewer your question yes you need a wax ring, just use on of the double thickness rings.
 

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You can use a repair flange to help bring it up. Otherwise if you are able to get to it from below, you can cut the pipe, then maybe extend with a sleeve or fernco.
 

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I would build the flange up with extensions then use a normal bowl wax- with out the plastic insert since it is on the toilet already. You make it sound like its one of those toilets with a separate plate that mounts on the floor first?
 

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I have NEVER seen a toilet with a 4 inch stub out on the bottom.

Yes you need a wax seal, preferably an extra thick one, and it goes on the toilet first, then gets set with the bowl. I have seen as many as three wax seals stacked.

Joe is right, How the heck is the floor out that much in a foot or two??? Get it level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have NEVER seen a toilet with a 4 inch stub out on the bottom.

Yes you need a wax seal, preferably an extra thick one, and it goes on the toilet first, then gets set with the bowl. I have seen as many as three wax seals stacked.

Joe is right, How the heck is the floor out that much in a foot or two??? Get it level.
Mmm, not sure what what you mean by floor being out a foot or two....

The Lauan and lino was removed. Trust me it was a joy to get up all the glued down bits of Lauan and maybe a 1000 or so staples...

Here are some pics of what I'm working with....hope this helps. Thanks again!
 

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HAHAHA
That 4" on the bottom of the toilet is an old lead flang.
Its stuck to th. just pry it of and your good to goe toilet with the old wax.
Just pry it off and use a new wax ring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
LEAD like the metal lead??? Home was built in 2007 so no lead plumbing here. I could have totally misunderstood you though. Maybe you mean LEAD as opposed to FOLLOW....?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So does this "stub" stay on the toilet or should I knock it off and just put a flange extender and wax ring on?
 

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Beat me to it.

I researched waxless seals a little when I did my installs. I used Saniseal foam gaskets. I chose them because it makes it really easy to pick up and reset the toilet more than once during installation.

http://sanisealgasket.com/whatissaniseal/sani-seal-installation-instructions

The Saniseal claims you can use one gasket with flanges up to 3/8" below the finished floor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, so if it is waxfree can I just put the toilet back then? Is the seal presumably still good even if the toilet has been removed? Or do I need to replace the seal?
 

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You should be able to just reseat it. Some come with a "doughnut" ring, to allow for a better seal. I used one, because in the six weeks of doing our bath, i probably had to pull the toliet two to three times a weeek, until we got down to painting, then we just pulled the tank for those couple of times.

I personaly prefer the wax free over the wax rings. You may find that you will have to sit down and wiggle a little, to get it to seat. Then just tug a little and all should be good once you hooke it back up.

But first I would put sown some grout within a 1/2" of the flange, then use silicone caulk to fill in the rest of the space, so te flange can still move a little, but will not allow water penetration under the tile, in case you have a overflow situation.
 

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If you have a backup in the pipe below the toilet, a wax seal is going to withstand some back pressure and the toilet will overflow on top of your tile or lino floor. I thinkyou should take off that extension, and use an extra thick wax seal with a horn. I dont get the cutout at all, as it should be round like the flange, but I dont know what you are trying to accomplish there.

And yes the one you have is Lead, like in 3 lb sheet lead, like in depleted uranium, like in split shot, like in sinkers, like in get the lead out and set that toilet. :laughing::laughing::laughing:
 

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Since the home was built in 2007, I can't see any way there's lead in the flange. It appears to be PVC, which is not a surprise.

And, any of the wax-free seals should withhold back pressure like a wax seal, possibly even better than a wax seal, assuming they're installed properly and working properly.
 

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jagans, never had a problem with backup in the two years we have used the wax free. And no, that is not lead, they look that way after being in the pipe for a few years.
 

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If you have a backup in the pipe below the toilet, a wax seal is going to withstand some back pressure and the toilet will overflow on top of your tile or lino floor. I thinkyou should take off that extension, and use an extra thick wax seal with a horn. I dont get the cutout at all, as it should be round like the flange, but I dont know what you are trying to accomplish there.

And yes the one you have is Lead, like in 3 lb sheet lead, like in depleted uranium, like in split shot, like in sinkers, like in get the lead out and set that toilet. :laughing::laughing::laughing:

:no::no::no: It's a waxless seal. I could tell from a mile away. I'm sure you're a better roofer than a plumber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Toilet is tried tested and sitting pretty. Waxless seal had a good 1 3/4" inside the flange pipe and was certainly not lead like sinkers... The Batman ears around the flange are the result of breaking my first tile with nippers and improvising with the wet saw on the next. This was my first go at tiling so be easy.

Thanks all for the help!
 

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Looks nice. Did you need toilet shims? They make little plastic ones- you can get them at a good hardware store. Believe it or not- sheet lead makes for good shims too :thumbsup:
 
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