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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to replace the tap in picture #1 with a new one, it is in my garage,

I assume it just unscrews from the threads, but how do i hold the copper pipe still while trying to turn it without crushing the pipe?

The second picture is the inside of the wall, where the pipe goes into my basement

The pipe goes straight through the wall with no bends

3.jpg


4.jpg
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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Definitely threaded. Turn the water off with valve in basement. Hold pipe with a pepe wrench or pliers and unscrew valve. Take valve to hardware or home center and buy replacement with same female threads,
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Definitely threaded. Turn the water off with valve in basement. Hold pipe with a pepe wrench or pliers and unscrew valve. Take valve to hardware or home center and buy replacement with same female threads,
Thanks, Ideally I would like to replace both taps inside and outside, But I don't think that is possible without soldering, Which I have zero experience with, I can't run the pex through the wall outside, correct?
 

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Usually Confused
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I vote for soldered. The threads on the tap are visible on the outside.
 

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It’s soldered. You can see the silver. The fitting allows for both types of connections, but yours is soldered. Look at the lump of solder on the back side.
 

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A "Handy Husband"
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Need to change my vote with that pic, soldered.

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Usually Confused
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If you have or are willing to get a soldering torch and some basic supplier it's not that hard to do a decent job; at least on the outside, the inside one would be trickier. Why do you want to replace both? There might be easier solutions depending on the problem.
 

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It's definitely soldered, although it appears it wasn't supposed to be. I suggest you just cut it off with a tubing cutter, clean it up, smooth it up, and put a compression fitting/spigot on it...or find someone who knows how to solder a new sweat to thread connector on it.

I almost suggested a push-to-connect (sharkbite) connection, but those rotate on the pipe too easily, and would not be suitable for a unsecured hose spigot. You'd attempt to turn the water on or off and end up with the whole spigot turning on the pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you have or are willing to get a soldering torch and some basic supplier it's not that hard to do a decent job; at least on the outside, the inside one would be trickier. Why do you want to replace both? There might be easier solutions depending on the problem.
the outside one is leaking when the tap is turned on,

its leaking out the threads that turn when i turn the tap on and off, it that makes sense?

nothing leaks when turned off

the inside one is fine, but figured if it was easy enough to do, i might as well do it while i am at it

i have a torch, but not sure its suitable for soldering?

you can see it in this thread.....

 

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Usually Confused
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In my experience, faucets with both threads and an inside diameter for 1/2" pipe are pretty common. Again, in my experience, compression fitting don't play well with a lot of movement, which this would probably see.

the outside one is leaking when the tap is turned on,

its leaking out the threads that turn when i turn the tap on and off, it that makes sense?

nothing leaks when turned off

the inside one is fine, but figured if it was easy enough to do, i might as well do it while i am at it
Do you mean around the stem for the handle? It could be as simple as taking a wrench to make sure the cap (under the handle and around the stem) is tight, or it could require a new 'packing washer', are pretty common at most hardware/box stores.

Not exactly like yours but:


There are no doubt many others in YouTube-land.
 

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Is it leaking here at these threads? If so, you just need a new hose washer. You can get a whole bag of them for about a buck or a single one for about 10 cents at any box/hardware store. Just a suggestion.

654917


 

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If it's coming out the shaft here, then as mentioned, check packing nut if there is one. Pic at a bad angle, I don't see one.

If no packing nut, replace the bib washer, if it still leaks, replace the valve, not that difficult imo. Just a suggestion.

654921
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If it's coming out the shaft here, then as mentioned, check packing nut if there is one. Pic at a bad angle, I don't see one.

If no packing nut, replace the bib washer, if it still leaks, replace the valve, not that difficult imo. Just a suggestion.

View attachment 654921
Yes it's leaking there in the above photo,

It only leaks when the tap is turned open/on
 
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