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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My terminal to my compressor was smoking so I removed the wiring harness to my compressor. It was completely melted and two of the male spade terminal/connectors it was connected to pulled out with it. Is there a way to replace the male connectors that pulled out/broke off completely, so I can attach my new terminal kit? Am I screwed and need to buy a new compressor?
 

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need a pix of the compressor terminal without any wires just what is melted.if the male slip connector are melted down to the body of the compressor you need to have a new compressor installed.the other side of whatever remains is the freon.were the female slip connectors super loose something arc'd then down.ight be able to solder new terminals on...somebody else might kick in on that.if you have any stub left of the male might be able to bug the wires on....:wink: need a pix
 

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those terminals must of been really loose that was like a welding torch in there.that compressor needs replaced..like hooking jumper cables on a car it sparks and that 12v imagine even 115V or if it is 208v major heat...lucky you didn't blow the charge if it kept arc'g those terminals...surprised you didn't blow a fuse or trip the breakers...where lights blinking when it came on? at least the freon is reuseable..R-22? be careful "they" will push for a new condenser call around and keep a record of what price and extras...contactor must of taken the hit check it out you can do it cheap& quick with new compressor....get the info directly off the compressor and check the pricss on here..good luck http://bestbuyheatingandairconditioning.com/compressor_search.htm
 

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slip&crimped connectors are the worst type of connections even on 208v compressors,it no even close to doing it as good as screw down ones.even seen some commercial 480V compressors with them.if you need to use a niddle nose to full the slip off then that is tight...most come off easy.. check this YOUTUBE on the fix if you had some stub there to work with... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usjxguQn1Rs don't think you can't buy that compressor either save there also... just rent there bodies.. for the change out.might connect with a local neighbor HVAC guy word of mouth maybe a lead tech could bang that out before the sun goes down with a couple of beers and an agreed price to do it..easy money..they would jump at it with you having everything don't forget that contactor..maybe a new Liquid line dryer..3/8ths is typical check it
 

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Compressor shorted to ground internally. burnt terminal off. If you check your refrigerant I bet she is empty. It would have leaked out the terminal when it shorted. no need to even attemp to fix the terminal.

The unit will most likely will have acid contamination now. Acid must be removed or future compressor or unit will fail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My compressor is a Bristol 2.5 ton model H29B28UABCA. Should I replace with the same compressor or is there a better one out there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Final Question I Promise:

If I replace the whole unit should I get the exact same unit (its a Carrier)? It is 12 years old and difficult to find the exact same unit.

Can I replace it with a new different brand like a Trane or Amana or Goodman? Can I replace it with a new Carrier that is a different model since they no longer make the exact same model?
 

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check out these compressors for prices.a 2 ton compressor is 2 tons:wink: no matter what the brand is http://bestbuyheatingandairconditioning.com/compressor_search.htm .foot mounts and discharge/suction might differ...the contactor is general type over the Grainger counter 24coil 30Amps single(break one line) or double pole...(break both lines) check the numbers right off that contactor for exact brand doesn't matter.did you trip a breaker burp dsome suction gas on your fingers smell it if it stings the freon is cooked from burn out.if you have a OHM meter check each terminal between the connections(dead shorts)good...then each to ground/copper line (open no short)good.this check is to see if the compressor went nuke contactor are viewable on that parts site i put up also on grainger
 

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when changing compressors, I would order from the manufacture (carrier in this case). True 2 ton is 2 ton, but piping might be different. I want compressor jobs to look like they did from factory.

I am also a firm belilver if I change just the outside unit I match brands with what is inside.Some will say if you have a TXV inside you can use any brand outside unit. I just don't see the need to mis match equipment. If this is A/C only then it is not as important as it is if it is a Heat pump. In my mind more goes into a matched system than the metering device (TXV). The indoor coil size is matched with the outdoor coil capacity when manufactures design systems. they install an accumulator to allow for any difference in coil capacities. You have a carrier so for me I would only install a carrier outside product. This could be Carrier, Bryant, or Payne as they are all the manufacture. And in fact are completley the same for the dry R-22 units. You put the name plate on it yourself when you purchase.
 
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