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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I am replacing a honeywell T822D-1255 with a Hunter Model 40120 my problem is my wires coming out the wall to the thermostat one is white and the other is red so I dont know witch wire is the RH 24volt wire or the W heating wire, now my thought is since I have the honeywell T822D-1255 hooked up I would think that it would have some marking on the back of the honeywell to say witch is witch and it doesnt do anyone have a manaul or diagram for this honeywell so I can determine witch is witch wire ..... also if any other suggestions to find out witch wire is witch I would appreaciate any help

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is this true even in a older home?? I was under the belief that the cables could be wrong... Also you said I could touch the two cables together to power up the boiler?? If this is true I can test it this way becuase the reason i am switching out the thermostat is is stop working and the first cheapest thing to replace or check.... I really appreaciate the help
 

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sure if its only 2 wires it just closes the 24V circuit even at the boiler the place the 2 wires land from the stat jump that and your doing that same simulation....could be the stat but if you jump at the stat subbase and it runs that proofs :thumbsup: the wire drop to the boiler as true so it is the stat...if you had no run :mad:from the hall jump then you go down onto the 24V terminals on the boiler and jump that...it runs:wink:..that means there is a break in the wire run up to the stat i'll check back if your still wondering...what i'm telling you
 

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first thing to do is take the hunter back to HD (home depot) or were ever you bought it. They make wonderful ceiling fans............their t-stats suck. When you do get a stat (Honeywell or white -rogers) then make sure you set it up in the bios or through a series of dip switches for hydroponic heat. Many a home owners have been through what you are going through, they always replace the thermostat, then end up calling us out (usually at about 9 pm) anyway..........I wish they would just call us to begin with.
 

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last note on your stat change out if you ever want to go to a programable digital stat you might need a 3rd wire from the transformer on the boiler to power it up with a direct 24vs..just so you know...if you have spare wires up bt the stat then your safe to consider one....with just 2 wires there you would be depending on a battery to run it and need changng every year like a smoke detector....let us know what happen with the stat changeout or not
 

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first thing to do is take the hunter back to HD (home depot) or were ever you bought it. They make wonderful ceiling fans............their t-stats suck. When you do get a stat (Honeywell or white -rogers) then make sure you set it up in the bios or through a series of dip switches for hydroponic heat. Many a home owners have been through what you are going through, they always replace the thermostat, then end up calling us out (usually at about 9 pm) anyway..........I wish they would just call us to begin with.
What's the difference? Does it stop calling for heat early before reaching the target temperature this way? I've got a white-rogers that is pretty basic and wanted to get something with some more pizazz on it like one of the higher end honeywell models - I realize that these things are chock full of features useless to me in a heating only situations - and assumed that it is just plug and play and they don't care if they're hooked up to a boiler or a furnace.
 

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if the home owner gets tired of constantly working the maual stat on temps a programmable would be worth it, with sleep/wake/leave return settings. she is going to need a C wire from that stat for a 24V constant at the subbase if she has no SPARES :huh: in the exsisting pull it's not worth it.new wire and the stat by a contractor $300 minimum....:eek:
 

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What's the difference? Does it stop calling for heat early before reaching the target temperature this way? I've got a white-rogers that is pretty basic and wanted to get something with some more pizazz on it like one of the higher end honeywell models - I realize that these things are chock full of features useless to me in a heating only situations - and assumed that it is just plug and play and they don't care if they're hooked up to a boiler or a furnace.

Yes, it all has to do with heat antisipation, and reaching the target tempature without over shooting it.
 

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What's the difference? Does it stop calling for heat early before reaching the target temperature this way? I've got a white-rogers that is pretty basic and wanted to get something with some more pizazz on it like one of the higher end honeywell models - I realize that these things are chock full of features useless to me in a heating only situations - and assumed that it is just plug and play and they don't care if they're hooked up to a boiler or a furnace.
if the home owner gets tired of constantly working the maual stat on temps a programmable would be worth it, with sleep/wake/leave return settings. she is going to need a C wire from that stat for a 24V constant at the subbase if she has no SPARES :huh: in the exsisting pull it's not worth it.new wire and the stat by a contractor $300 minimum....:eek:
biggles that is also so that the stat will run off of power from the furnace transformer, and not the batteries in the stat itself.
 

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electro mechanical use to run off a feed back from the call signal,but as the digital types started to sell a ton of home owners flipped them in all was well :thumbup: but the stat just sat there lit up :huh: with no action,and thats what the C side of a solid 24vs on the subbase is required for to run the electronics within.....:whistling2:if they have a spare on the bell wire hanging out of the wall for C side no problem if not :censored:...$$$$
 
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