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Replacing hardwired cooktop with range

5664 Views 15 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  beccamac50
I have a new stove coming tomorrow and I'm pretty comfortable with basic electrical like installing new fixtures or light switches, electric heaters, etc.

GOAL: To install an actual range outlet

I've been attempting to read up on this job but have a few questions that I was hoping someone could help answer. The wire cioming from the panel in the basement says "Canada Wire NMD 7 8/3" - is this the proper wire gauge (I'm unsure which number is the gauge) for a stove that is rated:

Amps @ 240V/208V 40

The breakers at the panel says "Range" on two separate switches, the sticker next to the switch says 15-40-40-15

I have yet to disconnect the hardwired cooktop as I'm using it this evening, and there will be no sense in my disconnecting it if there's something in the above info that would be prohibitive to my doing it myself. Aside from how many wires (3/4) are coming from through the wall, is there anything else I should know prior to diving in? I haven't purchased anything yet, just wanted to see if it could be a DIY for me.

(BTW - I always shut my entire main breaker off whenever I do even simple jobs)
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What you have is a quad breaker it's two tandems together center is a two pole 40 amp breaker with two 15 amp branch circuit breakers. If your range will work with a 40 amp circuit you should be fine.
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Thanks so much for your reply. Can you tell what gauge of wire that is by the info I listed? And if it is fine to wire the outlet/receptacle to?
the wire you listed indicates 8 awg. which is correct for a 40A circuit. Should have Black, Red, White, and Bare wires. The bare may be smaller than the insulated wires, this is okay.
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Does the "3" in the "8/3" indicate it is 3 wire? If so I'm wondering if this job might be too complicated for me. I understand that code requires 4 wire setups, unless grandfathered in (don't know all the details) - but I assume it would mean installing a 3 prong range receptacle if there are 3 wires in the sheath? Do they even sell these?
in cable assemblies the ground is not usually counted. 8/3 would be Black red White bare, unless it is very old.
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If that's the case, it is very good news indeed! :) Thanks again for your help.

Sorry, one more quick question. The wall oven directly next to the cooktop is also hardwired. For the time being I had planned on just leaving it connected as it still works (but is really ugly). The problem being that when I finally heave it - I have to have some cupboard doors made to cover the gaping hole it will leave.

When I install the range receptacle, must I do anything to the wall oven wiring? Leave as is? Disconnect completely? They look like two separate sheaths of wire, but I can't be sure at the moment whether they are connected/merge downstream (is this even possible/usual).

Thanks again.
As to my question above, I checked the breaker and turning off the tandem switch for "Range" cuts power to both appliances. It was looking good for my skill level, now I'm not so sure. Advice greatly appreciated.:)

Even though the tandem breaker turns off both appliances, the wire coming out of two separate sections of wall is really thick and looks like the same gauge. Is it possible they're separate wires on the same breaker switch? And does this hold any ramifications for installing this receptacle?
Open up the breaker box cover and look---I doubt if two seperate cables enter the breaker box and are doubled up into one breaker---but stranger things have happened---

If so---disconnect the lines to the old oven--

More likely----one line heads to a junction box--behind the oven?? or in the basement directly under it???

Put on your Sherlock Holmes hat and pipe and start looking----
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The distance between the panel and appliances is short. I have an unfinished basement and saw no junction boxes between panel and floor entry. I would assume that the box is then behind the wall. If this is indeed the case, what are my options or what must be done? I don't care if the old wall oven is connecvted or not, I just can't remove it until I can get a couple of doors made. So in essence I'm looking to replace the two appliances (stemming from what I assume is a junction box behind the drywall) with one regular stove. I thoight I had it down until I realized the tandem breaker is running both appliances. Thanks again in advance.
The junction box may be behind the wall oven or under the cook top I would also look inside cabinets around that area.
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Okay, will do when I get home. If there is a junction box where the cooktop and wall oven both connect to, does this change my ability or method of installing a range receptacle? What are my options? Can I hook up the receptacle to the leads coming from junction box to cooktop and leave wall oven as is for the time being? Or is it better to go right back to junction box, remove both leads to wall oven and cooktop and install range receptacle directly to main feed? Is the tandem breaker @ 40A currently splitting power between the two appliances? Or is each breaker in the tandem pair 40A (40A for cooktop 40A for wall oven). Sorry for the number of questions, I just want to ensure I'm understanding the process. Thanks again.
beccamac50 said:
No junction box visible.
It must be in the wall. Or hiding behind cabinets. Instead of trying to find it you could always run new wire to the new stove and install a receptacle. Who knows where they hid it.
Did you check inside the breaker panel.
Thanks for all your help. I've decided that it's probably best if I hire an electrician, as I'm really unsure about too many variables. But thanks for the quick responses.
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