DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
673 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The bottom rail of our garage door has some rot as we had problems with drainage (working on that). It is 5.5" x 1.5" x 16', and the bottom inch or two is rotted. I was thinking of replacing this board, since we can't afford a new door right now. I'm also repainting the door and replacing some small areas of rot with an epoxy filler, where the paint and caulk let some water in (you can see the corners of the panels in the picture).

Since the rails and stiles are all tongue and groove with each other and the particle board panels, I think replacing the whole board would be difficult since I don't have a router table or the bits to make the grooves and the profiles. My idea was to remove the board, rip it in half or so, and replace the bottom half with pvc board. I only see PVC boards in 3/4, so maybe I could sandwich 2 together? Then use some kind of metal piece on the back to join the PVC and the wood board. Plus a bunch of construction adhesive.

Will this work? Is there a better option I'm not thinking of? I know it might not look perfect, but at least it will get us through until we can get a new door, and with some filler and paint maybe it won't look too bad.

Will the PVC glue together well? Guessing theres something like pipe solvent that will weld it together.

Thanks!
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
673 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just one door, double car garage. Not sure how else to get the bottom solid enough to meet the ground to get a pretty good seal

Maybe just a PT 2x4 would be quicker and easier and cheaper? Not sure how long that would last. Few years probably
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9,075 Posts
I don't think you can remove just the bottom rail. Rail to stile connection is usually glued and has dowels. That connection is more likely to split/crack if you try to separate it, and you may have to rebuild the whole bottom panel. I think you just have to remove the rotted part with all the panels in place, and replace with matching piece. PVC not needed. Wood glue and screws. Then fill the joint, sand, prime and paint.
While the bottom edge rubber seal is off, finish the bottom edge as well. Caulk all joints between the frames and the panel after priming then at least 2 coats of outside paint. These panels don't have to be floating in absolute sense. You can caulk their joints. Remove the door trim while doing the work, return with a new trim or if gap allows, just the factory made trim with the rubber seal.
Roll the door up to your working height and hold in place with locking pliers on the tracks. Extra scrap wood braces under the doors if you want insurance.
Also may be time to look at all the hardware. Tighten the bolts, oil the wheels, maybe replace the springs. Manually, you should be opening the door with one finger.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top