[RMCarner]

This house and all on the block were built in the mid 20's using the same architectural scheme. I'm reluctant to install something like a tongue and groove Trex product since it will stand out like a sore thumb. Unless of course someone has a suggestion for a simulated wood grain product that will fool all but the observant...That leaves wood. The last tongue and groove porch I installed at one of my apartment buildings some 8 years ago is already showing distress from water and expansion/contraction issues. I might have bought the material from Lowes. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I live in Lancaster, PA.

 

[joecaption]

Why not one like this?
http://www.aeratis.com/heritage

 

[theJcK]

I used porcelain tile on mine. With 2×8 on 12" centers.. 3/4" plywood.. zip tape.. 1/2" durock.. RedGard waterproofing underneath. Abd they have several tiles with wood grain pattern.

 

[RMCarner]

Why not one like this?
http://www.aeratis.com/heritage

Yes. This does look good! How do you attach the material together? Not with a tradition flooring air nailer I'm guessing. And thanks!

 

[RMCarner]

I used porcelain tile on mine. With 2×8 on 12" centers.. 3/4" plywood.. zip tape.. 1/2" durock.. RedGard waterproofing underneath. Abd they have several tiles with wood grain pattern.

Would you send me a link/source on re: wood grain pattern? TIA

 

[Mingledtrash]

Would you send me a link/source on re: wood grain pattern? TIA

ceramic/porcelain tile on a deck could be a bad idea. Decks often have much more movement than other structures and i would be cautious about tile.

 

[joecaption]

Got to agree with Mingled on this one, only way I'd tile a deck is if it was a concrete slab.
If you did use the decking I suggested you can use unpressure treated lumber for the framing and then use a regular hard wood flooring nailer.
Any 100 plus year deck I've ever worked on built them that way.
I just make sure there's slight slope away from the home.
The T & G is so tight that 99% of the water runs off the decking not under it where it would effect the framing.
I like to have a long enough over hang on the decking that I can add wood grained PVC lumber over the rim joist to cover it up and make it maintenance free.

 

[RMCarner]

Got to agree with Mingled on this one, only way I'd tile a deck is if it was a concrete slab.
If you did use the decking I suggested you can use unpressure treated lumber for the framing and then use a regular hard wood flooring nailer.
Any 100 plus year deck I've ever worked on built them that way.
I just make sure there's slight slope away from the home.
The T & G is so tight that 99% of the water runs off the decking not under it where it would effect the framing.
I like to have a long enough over hang on the decking that I can add wood grained PVC lumber over the rim joist to cover it up and make it maintenance free.

Thanks for your response. I had already ruled out tile. The owner next door went that route and the grout is failing because the porch expands and contracts. I did rip out one board in order to take a peek at the framing. I don't think I'll be needing to replace or sister in new material. Or at the least it won't be much. It's all old growth pine (circa 1925) and is under the porch roof. I believe the framing is in good shape because the current floor is still flat. The skirts will need to be replaced. I also decided not to go with composite flooring. I just think it would look crappy installed in the front. I decided to go with 4/4 Mahogany. It comes in 8 foot lengths. I can get it at a local lumber yard for @$9.50 a linear foot. I got lucky this time. An 8 footer will provide me with about a 2 inch overhang. I have a floor nailer already. BTW, I had to strip one column and @7.5 feet of handrail, bottom rail, and baluster. 90 years of built up mostly lead based paint! Yuk. I didn't want to encase 90 plus years of layer paint with a thick primer that SW recommended. I just didn't think it would work. So my guy at SW suggested I try this product called Smart Strip. The stuff really works. I never tried to get down to bare wood. But I finally got to a point where what's left is all pretty evenly distributed so that now I can re-coat.