[dennislanier]

Have a question about replacing deck boards on my 20 year old deck. It is built with pressure treated 2x6 boards, some of which are starting to break down. The problem I have is that the deck is built between a utility room and a screened porch. One end of the board sticks under the lowest piece of hardie board siding, and the other end is under the framework of the porch by about one inch. How in the world can I remove the porch end of the board when the horizontal 2x4 is covering the tip end of the deck board? I don't see any practical way to raise the porch framework to get access to the end of the deck. Hope this makes sense and any info appreciated.

 

[kwikfishron]

I'd cut the decking the whole length on the porch wall and the Hardie side.

Remove the bulk of the decking and then deal with the little pieces that remain.

 

[dennislanier]

I'd cut the decking the whole length on the porch wall and the Hardie side.

Remove the bulk of the decking and then deal with the little pieces that remain.

I have taken some pictures with my phone if I can figure out how to post them on here. I have seen a tutorial or something on here about that so I will do a little research. Thanks for the information.

 

[kwikfishron]

I have taken some pictures with my phone if I can figure out how to post them on here. I have seen a tutorial or something on here about that so I will do a little research. Thanks for the information.

Pictures help, especially if they're not micro closeups. Seeing the entire area is what 'I' like to see anyway.

 

[dennislanier]

Here is a picture of the porch side

 

[dennislanier]

The left side of the photo shows the 2x4 covering the rest of the deck boards.

 

[ratherbefishing]

How about cutting the deck boards flush with the bottom plate of the porch walls? Then, either dig out the little scraps from under the bottom plate, or sister a board along the joist to attach the ends of the new deck boards.

 

[dennislanier]

How about cutting the deck boards flush with the bottom plate of the porch walls? Then, either dig out the little scraps from under the bottom plate, or sister a board along the joist to attach the ends of the new deck boards.

Sounds like a good idea. Would you use a sawz-all to make the cuts? My circular saw would not get very close to the end of the board. A related question - if I replaced the boards with composite, would I have a problem with the difference in thickness of old vs new boards. I assume the composite is a bit thinner than lumber.

 

[ratherbefishing]

So the boards that you need to cut are on the other side of the wall with the lattice? IOW, the side not covered by the carpet? Because on this side, there's plenty of room for the foot on the sawzall. That wouldn't be a difficult cut. Is the other side the same? Or is the lattice flush to the cut line? If so, it might be Multimaster time. That'll take a little longer. Not bad though. Use the wall as the guide for the cut. Then sister a board to the joist, if necessary, to attach the ends of the new deck boards. Cover the new seam with a piece of shoe or quarter round.

Not sure about the board thickness. But if you cut flush, and plan on some molding, it shouldn't matter. Use/make a threshold in the doorway to conceal the height difference.

 

[dennislanier]

So the boards that you need to cut are on the other side of the wall with the lattice? IOW, the side not covered by the carpet? Because on this side, there's plenty of room for the foot on the sawzall. That wouldn't be a difficult cut. Is the other side the same? Or is the lattice flush to the cut line? If so, it might be Multimaster time. That'll take a little longer. Not bad though. Use the wall as the guide for the cut. Then sister a board to the joist, if necessary, to attach the ends of the new deck boards. Cover the new seam with a piece of shoe or quarter round.

Not sure about the board thickness. But if you cut flush, and plan on some molding, it shouldn't matter. Use/make a threshold in the doorway to conceal the height difference.

The side I would need to cut is on the lattice side. I could remove the lattice temporarily and cut as close to the 2x4 as possible with a Sawzall. I guess the size of the "leftover" piece would dictate whether I leave those pieces or remove them and cover with molding. I had not thought about covering the seam but that would probably look a lot better. Anyway you have given me something to think about and I need to do a little more research. Thanks.

 

[ron45]

The boards in the picture look to be in good shape.
Have you thought about refinishing them.?

 

[Porsche986S]

Get yourself a " multi tool " and you'll be able to cut flush to the base of the wall . I also think sistering another 2x to the existing after you cut is the way to go . That way if in the future replacement is needed it is easy to do so .

 

[HotRodx10]

You can get really close to the wall and move fairly quickly to cut halfway through the deck boards with a toe-kick saw. Finishing the cut, and keeping it straight, with a reciprocating saw, becomes much easier. I don't know about anyone else, but I can never make a cut anywhere close to straight with just a sawsall.

 

[ron45]

Get yourself a " multi tool " and you'll be able to cut flush to the base of the wall . I also think sistering another 2x to the existing after you cut is the way to go . That way if in the future replacement is needed it is easy to do so .

Agreed.

If you zoom in on the picture you see the wall covers the joist.

 

[dennislanier]

The boards in the picture look to be in good shape.
Have you thought about refinishing them.?

Unfortunately, a lot of the boards are not in good shape. The ones in the picture are good on one end as you said, but further out they are exposed to sun and rain much more and are beginning to splinter in places. This deck was built over 20 years ago so I really can't complain too much.

 

[dennislanier]

You can get really close to the wall and move fairly quickly to cut halfway through the deck boards with a toe-kick saw. Finishing the cut, and keeping it straight, with a reciprocating saw, becomes much easier. I don't know about anyone else, but I can never make a cut anywhere close to straight with just a sawsall.

Had not thought about the toe-kick saw but it is worth looking into. Must confess I have never used a sawsall either so it might be a challenge for me.

 

[ratherbefishing]

The oscillating tool/saw is probably the way to go. A coarse tooth blade and it'll go pretty quick. You'll have more control than a sawzall. If you do go with a sawzall, the right blade makes all the difference.