I believe he is talkng about double sliding bypass closet doors.
Most times they are hollow core to be lighter. If you are having trouble with them falling out of the track, check the roller adjustments. They may be "tilted" so when you push it lifts up one side. Also, the floor guide may have too big a gap so when you slide the door it "rocks in and out" which could dislodge the roller on a low-lip track.
If you want to change to double outswing doors, first make sure you have room next to the bed or whatever for the swing. A 48" door needs a 50" rough-in frame. Usually, if a spec builder sees bypass doors for a closet they will rough frame the opening right at 48". Then with either a drywall or wood cased jamb and shimming to make it plumb, the actual opening will be around 46"-47". Rarely would the rough opening be framed at 50" and then another 1 1/2" filler added to make the opening smaller. In any case, I would not suggest a 36" or custom door size, so it could involve some more demo and drywall if you are committed to this change.
Most times they are hollow core to be lighter. If you are having trouble with them falling out of the track, check the roller adjustments. They may be "tilted" so when you push it lifts up one side. Also, the floor guide may have too big a gap so when you slide the door it "rocks in and out" which could dislodge the roller on a low-lip track.
If you want to change to double outswing doors, first make sure you have room next to the bed or whatever for the swing. A 48" door needs a 50" rough-in frame. Usually, if a spec builder sees bypass doors for a closet they will rough frame the opening right at 48". Then with either a drywall or wood cased jamb and shimming to make it plumb, the actual opening will be around 46"-47". Rarely would the rough opening be framed at 50" and then another 1 1/2" filler added to make the opening smaller. In any case, I would not suggest a 36" or custom door size, so it could involve some more demo and drywall if you are committed to this change.
