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Replacing a range hood with a Microwave: what are my code compliant wiring options?

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I want to put in a MW, but they always use a cord and plug to an outlet in the cab above, while the hood has a cable coming in from the rear. It's not practical to try and snake the cable from the back of the hood up into the back of the cab and install an outlet there, I think the cable is coming from below, where the range outlet is. What are my options? Is a junction box in the wall behind the MW considered 'accessible' by code?
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A junction box behind the microwave is not compliant. Also, be sure what circuit the old hood is on. Often the hood is on a lighting circuit not adequate for the microwave. Technically a permanently installed microwave needs its own dedicated circuit.
 

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Cut out the sheet rock behind the MW and run the cable into the cabinet and install a receptacle. Sheet rock is easy to repair, and you won't have to finish it behind the MW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the cable is coming from below and will not reach the cupboard above, put a junction box lower behind the range and run a cable up to the cupboard.
Brilliant! That hadn't occurred to me. Kinda forgot behind the range was not seen, I could probably even just expose the range box and simply replace the cable with a longer one fished down from the cabinet above the MW.

FWIW the circuit is shared by one of the 3 counter outlets, but a tabletop MW would be plugged in there anyway, no harm no foul even though new construction would call for a dedicated circuit.
 

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Brilliant! That hadn't occurred to me. Kinda forgot behind the range was not seen, I could probably even just expose the range box and simply replace the cable with a longer one fished down from the cabinet above the MW.

FWIW the circuit is shared by one of the 3 counter outlets, but a tabletop MW would be plugged in there anyway, no harm no foul even though new construction would call for a dedicated circuit.
With the fan it may draw more power than the old one, but you will know what it needs if it gives you trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
With the fan it may draw more power than the old one, but you will know what it needs if it gives you trouble.
It's a 20A line, it should handle it.
A micorhood requires a dedicated circuit. It should not be on one of the countertop circuits.
It's a great idea for new construction, but the reality of 'doing what you can' makes for compromises. Running a new circuit is not happening. In my experience countertop MW are often 1300W not the 1000W typical of OTRs, so this is actually less load on that same circuit!
 

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US electrical code is over the top. I'm in Europe and besides 2 massive mini splits, my whole house is on one circuit. Two hot water heaters, washer machine, big fridge, electric oven, 2 tv's, yadda, yadda.
Too true. I own a small apartment that has never had the electric updated, it has 1 20A riser going to a box with 2 15A circuits, for screw in glass fuses no less! In 25 years the tenant have very rarely blow the 15A, never mind the 20A, despite window AC units. US code requires like 5 circuits for the kitchen alone, 2 countertop, fridge, MW & DW, not including lights or normal wall outlets!
 

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Over-the-range microwaves are readily available, and have a range hood built in. Having a countertop MW over a regular range hood seems like it would make access to the MW inconvenient, due to the projection and height of the hood.
 

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I want to put in a MW, but they always use a cord and plug to an outlet in the cab above, while the hood has a cable coming in from the rear. It's not practical to try and snake the cable from the back of the hood up into the back of the cab and install an outlet there, I think the cable is coming from below, where the range outlet is. What are my options? Is a junction box in the wall behind the MW considered 'accessible' by code?
Have you taken the range hood down? Normally there is enough line to go up into the cabinet above. Just drill a hole in the cabinet bottom and push the wire into the cabinet. You don't need to go back in the wall to go up, if there is enough line.
I have installed several range hood microwaves and have always gone straight up through the cabinet and installed surfaces mount outlet. You will need another hole in the cabinet bottom, for the microwave cord.
 

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I like to use the aux receptacle on the range if the microwave ends up close to it.

A receptacle in a cabinet above is likely piggybacked on a lighting circuit with other loads, leading to nuisance trips.
 

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US electrical code is over the top. I'm in Europe and besides 2 massive mini splits, my whole house is on one circuit. Two hot water heaters, washer machine, big fridge, electric oven, 2 tv's, yadda, yadda.
Maybe, but those are the rules we follow and the advice given will be consistent with those rules.
 
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US electrical code is over the top. I'm in Europe and besides 2 massive mini splits, my whole house is on one circuit. Two hot water heaters, washer machine, big fridge, electric oven, 2 tv's, yadda, yadda.
Iam just curious is this circuit rated 100 amps or something? Unless the are really small appliances a basic 50 gallon WH will draw 18.5A on a 240v circuit alone nevermind the range..
 

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Having a dedicated circuit also gives you (or next owner) flexibility for installing a more powerful unit, like a convection/micro one in the future, plus your lights won't dim.
 

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Iam just curious is this circuit rated 100 amps or something? Unless the are really small appliances a basic 50 gallon WH will draw 18.5A on a 240v circuit alone nevermind the range..
63A
When we remodel I plan on adding separate circuits, nothing like the US though. My last house in the US the panel was full and I had to juggle circuits to add a circuit for my welder. It was a pita.
 
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