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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This foundation wall has multiple cracks that poured in rain water. Proper grading would have fixed the water leak but the wall still had big cracks and leaned 2.5" so we're putting in a new one. Wall cracked from clay soil movement.

Who do I call for expert advice about drain tile? There's a garage 6 feet to the right in the picture. Water gets under the garage and then into basement via crack in wall that abuts garage. Again, proper grading should eliminate this water but as a precaution I'm thinking about pls ING drain tile outside back garage wall.

My big question is what to do with water from the back garage wall drain and the French drain I plan to put next to footing of replaced wall. Water should be minimal rainwater that filters down through 3' rock wall buffer going next to wall (to cancel clay soil force against wall). Don't want to run it into interior sump pump. Also don't know how to connect garage wall drain (2' below surface) to new wall drain (8' below surface).
 

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If the water runs off the yard into the street, it is the same as if you divert it away from the home .

Yes I knew about some cities with those rules, it is also illegal to wash your car in the driveway and let the water run into the storm drains, but it happens quite often.

So use a dry well, them pump it to an outlet in the driveway, that pops up and closes back after the storm.

ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So use a dry well, them pump it to an outlet in the driveway, that pops up and closes back after the storm.
ED
So there's now a new wall where the cracked wall used to be. I'm familiar with interior sump pump arrangements but not exterior. I also think it'd be foolish to direct exterior water to the interior and then pump it out. So what does an exterior dry well/pump arrangement look like?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My peculiar problem ... involves the 6' high, 2'-4' thick wall of rock that will be placed up against the foundation wall, to handle any future soil movement towards that wall. This rock starts at footing and will come up to 12" below grade (12" soil on top). There's more possibility of surface water getting down to the french drain than any chance of subsurface water getting into the drain In fact, the dirt at footing was completely dry when we dug the hole, even with plenty of rain earlier.

In addition, I plan to grade the top dirt appropriately, so there may never be any water in the french drain. But in the event water does get down there, I need a way to get that water out and onto the grass. I've been lookking online but haven't found any scenarios for a drywell/pump combo at footing level.
 

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I have seen them built from a 4' diameter culvert , placed upright, with a concrete lid, with a normal sump pump installed, that would kick in and pump out the dry well.

You may have to adapt a small septic tank, or similar to collect water, to be pumped out.

Anything can be designed if you really want it.

ED
 

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You will need to find out from your municipality if you can run your storm water into their system and how far below grade it is. Follow Ed's plan and place a dry well some place in your yard. You should be able to plumb your garage drain into the drain for the new wall. This new drain should be placed next to the footer and run to the dry well. I would back fill the space between the new wall and the clay soil next to the wall with a mix of #1 and #2 washed stone to 1' below final grade. Cover the stone with geotextile and grade the cover soil ½" fall per foot from the wall. The drain should be directed to the dry well and then to the storm water drain if possible. if the drain is too high then place a sump pump into the dry well.
 

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The well can be directly next to the foundation, or anywhere in the property as long as the slope is away from the house. The well should be insulated with a insulated lid, which is to stop the pump from freezing up - if there is such a thing. Am in NJ and my parents needed outside drywell. I made it out of joined 5 gl buckets but forgetting to remove the pump in winters gave them shorter lives. Using Zoeller seems to last longer. Even Zoeller rusts but freezing probably made some part crack and let in water.
 
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