[Marty1Mc]

I have read a bunch of threads on this but have a few questions. My house is brick first floor, finished attic with shed dormers and masonite siding on the gable ends and sheds.

I want to replace my windows as the wooden windows I have are starting to rot. I am going with vinyl replacement windows.

The downstairs windows are encased in brick but the upstairs windows are like any sided house.

The downstairs windows have a sill that extends out over the brick about 4 inches. The upstairs windows do not. Some of my windows are quite large ex: 76x77 triple wide double hung. I am also looking for windows that tilt in for cleaning as my wife has trouble cleaning the current ones.

1). Is there a different type of window I need to order for the first floor? All of the vinyl windows I have seen do not have this sill on the outside of the window.

2). Is vinyl a good choice for very large windows. I am concerned about sagging of the frame over time.

3). Are tilt in windows prone to loosing seal over time? My current windows feel like they are open during the winter.

4). Has anybody had experience with VantagePointe by Simonton? HD sells these and I was going to try to get Simonton, but would consider these if they are decent.

5). Any other brands anyone recommends?

Thanks!

 

[Just Bill]

Quality vinyl windows are as good as any other quality products. The key is are they quality. Simonton has been around for a while, and although I have never used them, seem to have a good reputation. Properly installed, they will serve as well as the old windows, but won't rot.

You said "replacement" windows??? Replacement windows are mounted in the existing window frames. From the sound of your post, you are removing the old frame, so I assume you are installing 'new construction' vinyl windows. They have a nailing fin included. Installing those windows in a brick veneer house can be a challenge, but is doable. Since no two brick installations are exactly the same, I can't tell you what needs to be done. That should become obvious once one old window is removed. Start on a side of the house least visible, so oops are not seen easily. Don't forget to follow careful flashing procedures or you will have leaky windows.

 

[Marty1Mc]

Yes, I will be replacing my existing windows and frames. I am glad you made the point about replacement vs new construction. It seems there is a bit of inconsistency out there, even among manufacturers. I am seeing retrofit windows being labelled as replacement. There is also something called a "block frame replacement window" that says it's a new construction window with no nailing fins and is designed for brick and sided homes. So, I will have to be very specific when I choose as I could wind up with a bunch of windows and no frames. LOL. I continue to learn about this as I go and appreciate the correction you made. It opened my eyes to the different terms being used.

I am not locked into Simonton, but it seems like a very good price performer. From what I have read, Marvin, Simonton, Anderson are decent windows to install while Pella, American Craftsman and a few others are not. My goal is to have a draft free home with windows that are easy to clean and will last. Any brand that can accomplish that will be on the list. Also, I want to buy from a manufacturer that will be around in 10 yrs as well.

The most critical window is in the rear of the house, so the "oops" factor is much less. I have a picture window that is sagging from rot. I want to replace this one myself as I will probably find the support frame will need work. It will be a simple installation, with a small double hung on each side of it. I may do this project to get my feet wet. The double hung windows are 22 x 64. I won't need any ladders to work on the outside and I have a large open work area inside.

 

[Willie T]

Most of the old wood sash window frames around here look like this. (It's just a basic drawing, so go easy on my lack of skills here.)

All the inside edges of those colored strips line up with each other.

I usually measure from the inside edges of the blue strips (sometimes they are wide strips instead of as shown... no big deal) and sometimes glue in a window width strip to fill in the space between the window and the frame.

The reason I do this is because we have some VERY strict and restrictive codes in parts of Florida that won't allow for much of any space between the window and the wood frame.

This is a little tricky to do.

You have to remove the blue strip (it's just nailed on)
Then dig out the pink strip (it's usually in a groove)

Now you caulk up the inside back edge of the green strip and slide the window in. The 'fins' butt against the back edge of that green strip.

Screw the window into alignment.

Here comes the 'tricky' part.........

Doing only one side (or the top) at a time, you remove the screws (on that one side only). Now you glue up the backs of your "filler" pieces, and slide them into the space between the window and the wood frame.

Wedge the filler strip up tight against the wooden frame with shims.

Let the glue dry. I use 2P-10 Jel (with no activator), so it only takes a few minutes for the glue to set up solid.

Put the screws back in.

Do this to the other sides, in turn.

In some areas where wind is not a big factor and the codes don't kill your production, I don't even bother with the glued-in strips. I just screw the windows in place. But I am telling you about the filler method so you can feel better about adding it to give you a greater thickness of wood to screw into. The fillers also limit the possible side-to-side movement of the window as it is pushed around by the wind... (the reason for our heavy code restrictions)

I know the window is only drawn a couple of inches tall.... It's just to give you an idea of how it all fits together (use your imagination)