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I've replaced 2 windows in my house with Pella replacement windows. I have 10 to go. I end up with roughly a 1/4" gap on the sides, and less on top. The two that I've done so far, I've used expanding foam. It's kinda of a pain to use. Is there another solution to fill the cracks (other than fiberglass - would rather poke my eyes out) ????

Thanks,

Micallen
 

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No you would not rather poke your eyes out.

I know of what I speak. I only have one left due to a stupidity that I pulled many years ago.
Most people do not realize how useful those peepers are, until they have to spend a while without one or both.:devil3:

Actually expanding foam is a great thing to use on these gaps.

Are you using the minimal expanding type or the greatly expanding stuff?

The minimal expanding fills easier and will not ooze into a drippy mess.


ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No you would not rather poke your eyes out.

I know of what I speak. I only have one left due to a stupidity that I pulled many years ago.
Most people do not realize how useful those peepers are, until they have to spend a while without one or both.:devil3:

Actually expanding foam is a great thing to use on these gaps.

Are you using the minimal expanding type or the greatly expanding stuff?

The minimal expanding fills easier and will not ooze into a drippy mess.


ED
Sorry about your eye. :sad:

Yes, using the minimal stuff (for Doors and Windows). Still expands too much sometimes. The crack is just big enough to get the filler tube in, but you can't really see how much you're getting in there.
 

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It does take practice and patience ( there I go with that word again), To use the foam, but keep at it and the messes will get much smaller.

One tip I have is to GENTLY squeeze the trigger, that way the flow is easier to control.


ED
 

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The rough openings I am familiar with allows for 1/2 inch all around the window to allow for enough insulation to be effective. Too small of a space and there is not enough room to properly install the insulation.
Also, when using the foam, spray a single bead of foam tight to the nailing flange to act as a "wind stop" and fill in the balance with fibreglas.
 

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The rough openings I am familiar with allows for 1/2 inch all around the window to allow for enough insulation to be effective. Too small of a space and there is not enough room to properly install the insulation.
Also, when using the foam, spray a single bead of foam tight to the nailing flange to act as a "wind stop" and fill in the balance with fibreglas.
If you have a new thermal window insert and it fits the opening why is there need for insulation?Replacement windows have no nailing flange .They are made to be inserted into the existing jamb.
 

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If you have a new thermal window insert and it fits the opening why is there need for insulation?Replacement windows have no nailing flange .They are made to be inserted into the existing jamb.
Oops!

Missed that part.
 

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IMO, use backer rod/caulk (stretches) as it will keep an air seal when the window-vinyl/jamb-wood expand and contract at two different rates. Most foam will break the air seal at one or the other side with humidity swing of the seasons. Replaced windows and found foam failures too often... you need the backer rod for a quality elastic bond, without bonding the back or using too much-- for a back too thick that will break- pp.35; https://books.google.com/books?id=XHAyTXye2oMC&pg=PA25&lpg=PA25&dq=capillary+break&source=bl&ots=C_mlI39VL5&sig=JRg-1wVMwEVRrQFiQdX0JxBNa68&hl=en&ei=VMPHS5_pGIyosgPL0eSXCw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8&ved=0CB0Q6AEwBzgK#v=onepage&q=capillary%20break&f=false

Gary
 

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You aren't going to be able to close the gap in some replacement window applications with backer rod and foam. Some of the openings are so out of square that elongating gaps that reach 1/2" or greater are not uncommon.

The new foams, on the high end of the scale, have considerable movement factors to them. Some as high as 30% which should be more than enough for your window application. If the wall is moving more than 15% in either direction, window seal isn't your primary problem.
 

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Sounds like me, between honey-do list and fishing, guess which one gets done for sure, lol. Problem with using a can of Dow window/door canned foam, IMO; it is open cell, low density. So at 3.3perms per inch at only 1/2" thick, it's 6 perms, about the same as tar paper. And being open cell it will pull away from one side or the other because it shrinks as it cures over time, counter-productive. And most foams require paint/stain to protect from UV (sunlight) or they degrade at the bubbles to allow water/moisture entry which is why Pella uses it on interior not exterior. There are some closed cell for exterior apps if you don't mind some difficulties as you experienced for average DIY'er.

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions. I finished this up probably 4-5 weeks ago. It went well. The one over the kitchen sink was a pain because, well, it was over the kitchen sink. I covered a 1/2" piece of plywood with cardboard, and put stops on the bottom so it would fit neatly in the sinks. Worked great for me to kneel on and do that window.

A job I'm proud of and glad I did it.
 
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