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That appears to be an old surface mount switch for surface wiring. They are still made by Pass & Seymour and Cooper wiring. Problem is they are a 10 amp switch (at 125v, 5 amp at 250v)

I'd go with RJs solution of the toggle switch and cover. If you need more space in the box or just want to bring the switch forward, you can put a box extension on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That appears to be an old surface mount switch for surface wiring. They are still made by Pass & Seymour and Cooper wiring. Problem is they are a 10 amp switch (at 125v, 5 amp at 250v)

I'd go with RJs solution of the toggle switch and cover. If you need more space in the box or just want to bring the switch forward, you can put a box extension on it.
Thx, not sure big boxes sell these covers worst case buy it on amazon. Regarding amp switch is there a certain amp switch I should be buying for the garage door? Much appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)

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The switch powers provides the ON power to that outlet/garage door

That doesn't answer the question of why the outlet needs to be switched (any GDO I know of operates from its own controls and sensors). Eliminate the switch, tie the wires together and install a blank cover. This makes the outlet hot all the time.
 

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So I bought a extension for the box, added the switch, it works! I have a working garage door now, I will order the cover https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-729-...sr=8-31#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

My question is do I just snip the sides (highlighted in yellow)?

Also I have no ground wire, should I just add a wire from the switch green screw and ground it to a screw on the box?

You have a 3 1/2" octagon box. The cover your ordered works with 4" octagon boxes. If you insist on keeping the switch, you are going to have to replace that box. As others have said, GDOs do not require switched receptacles. Just twist and wire nut the wires together and get a 3 1/2" blank cover.

If you do keep the switch, I would replace the box with a 4" square box and get a cover like this:

 

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So I could technically just twist the white and black wire together and put a cover on the box and just keep it LIVE all the time?

Yes - using wire nuts of course (with the power off). Has it ever struck you a tad odd that you've had to do this extra step of switching on the power for GDO before using it, then realizing that it is left on until you return home again?


Edit - I just saw your post #10. Do you have a switch over a switch? In your original post the photo showed a surface-mounted switch under a box with no cover and a bunch of wires. I thought you were talking about that switch but it seems not (you referred to "this switch"). So what does that switch control?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes - using wire nuts of course (with the power off). Has it ever struck you a tad odd that you've had to do this extra step of switching on the power for GDO before using it, then realizing that it is left on until you return home again?


Edit - I just saw your post #10. Do you have a switch over a switch? In your original post the photo showed a surface-mounted switch under a box with no cover and a bunch of wires. I thought you were talking about that switch but it seems not (you referred to "this switch"). So what does that switch control?
It was always In the “ON” Position, then I had a buddy stay over and he was drunk in my garage messing around with switches and crap..looking for a shovel
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes - using wire nuts of course (with the power off). Has it ever struck you a tad odd that you've had to do this extra step of switching on the power for GDO before using it, then realizing that it is left on until you return home again?


Edit - I just saw your post #10. Do you have a switch over a switch? In your original post the photo showed a surface-mounted switch under a box with no cover and a bunch of wires. I thought you were talking about that switch but it seems not (you referred to "this switch"). So what does that switch control?
Yes there two switches 1 above another in photo, top switch is for the outlet that the garage door opener is plugged into and the bottom switch is for my motion lights...does it matter
 

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So I could technically just twist the white and black wire together and put a cover on the box and just keep it LIVE all the time?

As long as those were the 2 wires that went to the switch, yes. Twist them together using a wire nut, get a blank cover for the box, and call it a day. Then your GDO receptacle will always stay live. There usually is no need to switch the power to the GDO.

If you ever need to service the GDO, just unplug it from the receptacle.
 

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This electrical area looks dangerous. It would probably pay you to go in front of the messed up box and after the round switch and rewire the entire area. It would pay you in the log run rather than losing your home. Poor electrical is nothing to play with.
 

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what is dangerous about it?

I too am curious. Yes it looks old but appears to be in excellent shape. In zooming in and studying the original picture, the insulation on the wires does not appear to be cracking. The splices in the box appear original and done correctly at the time of install with solder, rubber tape, and friction tape. It is copper wiring. It appears to not have been modified since installed. As long as the circuit breaker or fuse is of the correct size for the wire, I would leave it.
 
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