[tearitup]

These are 70's single hung, single pane aluminum frame windows.
Sweat & mildew like crazy in the south, especially central gas heat. The deteriorating seals may be replaceable (vinyl & "felt") - not sure it's worth it - maybe.

Windows have nailing flange - over a 1x4, nailed on outside of studs / sheathing. Used to do remodeling - never switched one style window for another. Most were wood.

Inside, 1/2" sheet rock butts close to the aluminum frame - covering the 2x4 opening.

Doubt I can afford the labor to replace them (if done right).
Assume "replacement" windows for this construction, you'd cut the aluminum frame loose from its nailing flange w/ sawzall, or...?
I would NOT want to put much, if any force on bricks, removing old frames. Mortar is soft ( portland).

For the replacements, do they normally tear off the ~ 3" wide strip of sheet rock? Whether to get old windows out, or make replacement installs "go better" - overall?

Or don't touch the sheet rock, get windows a bit smaller than the side to side sheet rock opening, then use snap-in gap filler strips? Or several options?

Same on outside - if vinyl replacements - use snap-in gap filler next to brick veneer?

Not sure how durable / long lived the gap filler strips are in southern sun?

Old windows also have wood stools inside - butt against aluminum frames, & tiny apron. Both easy enough to remove - one piece, or just replace.

 

[joecaption]

A picture would be a big help so we can see what your dealing with.

 

[tearitup]

It looks like this vid.

Except, due to soft mortar, if I did anything close to this video - @ about 3:30 min., then at 3:54 & * 7:05 * - prying near - or on - bricks to get at the hidden aluminum nailing flange, I'd have lots of brick repair. One slip or a little pressure - entire bricks might come loose.

Or, doing like the vid - being careful not to touch bricks, it'd take hours to get one window out. I can't see any contractor (on my house) making any profit - doing it that way & not cracking mortar; or he'd say, "sor-ry."

 

[tearitup]

Like this vid @ 5:30, I wouldn't dream of prying against my soft mortar bricks, even w/ a long block:

Maybe prying from the inside, on top of sheet rock - if got the right leverage to pull nails & nailing flange loose.

 

[Windows on Wash]

You can pry on the interior RO with wood blocking to protect it. You can also cut it out sectionally and just pull it from behind the brick with normal hand force and good gloves.

 

[Colbyt]

I did not watch either video above. I chose to do this the hard way. I removed the old metal jamb and the drywall return, wrapped the studs with self adhesive window flashing, built out the RO to flush it with the brick and wrapped that with self adhesive window flashing. This was deeper than the initial opening as I covered the void between the sheathing and brick veneer. I also foamed the cavity before doing this step.

Then I measured the brick to brick opening and the new opening I created. Using the smaller measurement I ordered standard replacement windows held out enough to overlap the brick all the way around. Caulked on the outside with silicone and the inside with acrylic caulk.

Then I built the jamb extensions to flush from window to drywall and trimmed it out. I used the pre-primed 1x5 pine from Lowes and ripped it to proper depth.

Yes this was a lot more labor than a 'caulk and walk' installer would do. It is also air and water tight. It should last for many years.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

These are 70's single hung, single pane aluminum frame windows.
Sweat & mildew like crazy in the south, especially central gas heat. .

Could you explain how the central gas heat contributes condensation?

 

[tearitup]

Thanks for replies.

built out the RO to flush it with the brick and wrapped that with self adhesive window flashing.

Not sure of the purpose of decreasing original windows RO?
Couldn't you just use shims, as on all windows? Unless for some reason, your RO was WAY smaller than the brick opening.

Depends on how original windows are made, but the brick veneer opening - on aluminum windows - should normally be around the same or little smaller than RO (I think). Because, part of the aluminum window frame is covered by brick. And the window frame was smaller than RO.

Yes, one of the only ways to pry on these windows is against the 2x4 RO - not bricks. It may take longer, depending on direction I need to pry. I might be able to cut (sawzall) or break parts of the frame away from the nailing flange.

If then can pry the nailing flange out from 1x4 nailer, slip a sawzall in & cut off nails - if they don't come out by prying.
Because the bricks are touching & covering part of the edge of aluminum frames, any force against bricks by the frame moving / twisting, could loosen bricks. I really can't push / pry the frames outward, or it'll put pressure on bricks. With normal hardness mortar, slight pressure on bricks wouldn't be much issue.

I've also got to cut most all the frame to bricks caulking out - leaving some gap. (Dremel w/ abrasive blade does amazingly well, or there are special, expensive caulking cutters). So no caulking remnants catch on the bricks.

Condensation: It's not so much the central gas heat introducing humidity, though I've read electric central is drier than gas. It's that humidity is generally high, partly because most days, it's not cold enough for heat to run many hrs. Some humidity from from appliances, showers stays inside. But also, because those windows were never air tite & leak air / humidity. And it all hits the cold aluminum.

 

[Colbyt]

Not sure of the purpose of decreasing original windows RO?
Couldn't you just use shims, as on all windows? Unless for some reason, your RO was WAY smaller than the brick opening.

.

The average RO on all the ones I have seen is 1.5" smaller (not necessarily centered) than the brick to brick measurement. Please note this only applies to aluminum new construction windows when the house was built.