Replaced Kitchen Sink Pipe - Still Leaking

3845 Views 18 Replies 9 Participants Last post by dudleydoright, Feb 22, 2013

phillysfinest4

Discussion Starter · Feb 16, 2013

Hello-
I just tore out all the prior PVC pipes under my sinks as they were leaking.
I replaced the faucet as well as installed a garbage disposal. My hangup is I have never done this before and the PVC pipes are leaking. I applied sealant and it still leaks. I have added a pic. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

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1 - 19 of 19 Posts

Daniel Holzman

· #2 · Feb 16, 2013

I have no idea what that grey stuff is, totally unnecessary if you get the pieces properly aligned, and use the correct gaskets. My guess is you have the wrong pieces. There are plastic gaskets that must be used in each connection. There are at least two sizes, depending on the type of pipe you are connecting to. Go to a plumbing supply store, they will have the right pieces. Show them what you need to connect, they will get you the right parts. And make sure the pieces align properly, you can get a leak if the pipes you are connecting are not straight.

joecaption

· #3 · Feb 16, 2013

All the wrong fittings, and ran wrong. Toss all that and redo it something like this.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...2F7097168378E21E4D5934D7BD684&selectedIndex=0

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jagans

· #4 · Feb 16, 2013

Call a real plumber, please. No vent, Illegal trap that will siphon.

phillysfinest4

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 16, 2013

I know it looks worse with all that gray stuff around it. I really don't have the money for a plumber. I just am not sure what exact pieces to get, like the connectors. The job before me was even worse. If anyone has like a link to the parts i need, thanks guys

oh'mike

· #6 · Feb 17, 2013

Post one more picture from a little further back--If we can see the pipe from the bottom of the cabinet--someone can help---

All that you have there is going to need to be replaced.

phillysfinest4

Discussion Starter · #7 · Feb 17, 2013

oh'mike said:
Post one more picture from a little further back--If we can see the pipe from the bottom of the cabinet--someone can help---

All that you have there is going to need to be replaced.

yeah i dont care about buying a few new parts, thats fine
attached is the pic u requested
thank you

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oh'mike

· #8 · Feb 17, 2013

Ready to start over?

You will need the following---about 3 feet of 1 1/2'' pvc pipe--a sanitary T- a 45* street elbow.--a threaded female adapter --an AAV--(Air Admitance valve) and a trap adapter.

First thing---remove all existing drain piping---leave the rubber fitting at the floor---

1--install a new P-trap to the garbage disposer---be sure you put the nylon washer on correctly--wide side to the nut--thin side to the fitting---

2 Loosen the disposer just enough that you can turn it ---

3 temporarily put the trap adapter and sanitary T onto the P-trap arm---swing the assembly so it is over the pipe in the bottom of the cabinet.( you may need to turn the disposer to get the aim right)

4 cut and install a section of pipe from the rubber boot to the bottom of the sanitary T---

5-add a section of pipe to the top of the T--with the female addapter and AAV attached---you want this as close to the bottom of the counter top as you can--

If everything fits---prime and glue using the proper stuff for PVC.--Tighten up the compression nuts on the P-trap---tighten up the disposer.

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phillysfinest4

Discussion Starter · #9 · Feb 17, 2013

this is what i need, i'll have to google what some of your terminology is, but thanks for your help, much appreciated

oh'mike

· #10 · Feb 17, 2013

In a nut shell---you need a drain straight up from the rubber boot---to a T--then up to a vent-(AAV)

Always put the P-trap on to the disposer first----that's how you know where the T- needs to be--and how it must face for the P=trap to enter it.

creeper

· #11 · Feb 17, 2013

phillysfinest4 said:
this is what i need, i'll have to google what some of your terminology is, but thanks for your help, much appreciated

THats Mike for you.

Clear and easy to understand directions without making one feel like a dufus

Thanks Mike

paintdrying

· #12 · Feb 17, 2013

Another thing I noticed is the bigbox parts have become nothing but unusable. I would only use parts from a supply house, here at least they are much cheaper than a big box.

oh'mike

· #13 · Feb 17, 2013

creeper said:
THats Mike for you.

Clear and easy to understand directions without making one feel like a dufus

Thanks Mike

Thanks Creeper----we all have strengths and weaknesses---

I can't figure out computers----I could carve one out of wood--but I can't post a picture---go figure---I would like to see a picture of a windmill---

creeper

· #14 · Feb 17, 2013

There you go.

What a coincidence. Someone very special recently shared this one with me

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TheEplumber

· #15 · Feb 17, 2013

phillysfinest4 said:
this is what i need, i'll have to google what some of your terminology is, but thanks for your help, much appreciated

This is pretty much what mike described- but instead of the sink tailpiece, you have the disposal. Oh, and throw away the caulky stuff:thumbsup:

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Reactions: 2

joecaption

· #16 · Feb 17, 2013

Do yourself a favor and also get rid of the disposal. One of the most useless devices I've ever seen. Oh well there's also an electric can opener.

paintdrying

· #17 · Feb 22, 2013

hey, if not for the electric can opener I would never see my cat

joecaption

· #18 · Feb 22, 2013

We have dogs, funny how when you call there name they ignore you but let that micowave or oven timer go off and here they come.

dudleydoright

· #19 · Feb 22, 2013

Extension cord?

Am I mistaken or is the supply for that disposal an extension chord? If so needs to be redone with proper electrical. NEC allows 3' for a garbage disposal power supply. By plugging into an extension cord your length is increased by the length of that cord. A disposal is sometimes wired to the same circuit as a dishwasher, but usually is expected to be on a dedicated circuit. It should as a minimum have a 15 amp circuit with nothing else on it. Do yourself a favor and run #12 wire for the circuit to a single receptacle. If over a basement or crawl space use a surface box extended thru floor with emt and proper fiitting for simplicity. What you have is a no no.
PS installations like this are what insurance adjusters look for if there is a fire and even though it may not be the cause it makes the issue illegal undocumented installations. Permit is the law, but your choice, however the work should be up to code no matter what.

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