[Cigal]

Hi there, new member here, not new to the construction game.

I have a 20 ft high wall that has two layers of fire rated drywall on each side. Framing is metal. (I am a commercial metal framer)

I'd like to replace the bottom with cinderblock as a means of waterproofing within the room (Ie water not flowing through underneath the metal track.)

I'd like to cut away the bottom 2 ft of the wall and replace it with a single row of cinderblock and reattach the framing to the top of this row..

What are your thoughts on supporting the wall while the studs are cut out?
The wall does tie into another perpendicular wall which is supported, and the other end of this wall is tied in to a precast wall so real in between I was looking to support it while the studs are cut out.

Would ledger boards a few 6x6's and some bottle jacks work while replacing the bottom? For carriage bolts what size would be sufficient? I've noticed 3/4" carriage bolts are too thick when screwing through the stud flange they might affect the integrity of the stud if the hole is oversized.. I calculated the wall weight to be about 4000 lbs.

Sorry for the long post, I also have pictures if needed!

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,... Is there anyway to head off the water up-stream to get it away from the wall,..??

I'd use all-thread rod, straight through stud bays, sandwich the wall, 'tween the "Ledger Boards"/ cleats,...
3/4" would be fine, just don't go through a stud,...

 

[de-nagorg]

Put bolts 2 inches to each side of the studs, this sandwiches the stud, and holds it secure, so it cannot slip down while cutting it off.

You only need to do this every three or so studs, the middle ones will follow their counterparts.

But I would build a drainage system so the water never gets to flow underneath.

ED

 

[Cigal]

You guys both seem to agree on not going through the stud. What is your reasoning, or did I touch on it in my original post.

I just hope having the lag bolts close to studs instead of through them will be able to pinch them hard enough. Would the weight tear the lag bolt through the drywall? :vs_worry:

 

[Cigal]

Also regarding redirecting the water, it is sort of going to be a wet room, two other walls are cinderblock, this is the only that is drywall, I will be putting in a floor drain!

 

[Nealtw]

I have seen a 12 ft wide opening put in a wall to join two shops they just cut out a hole 10 ft high and nothing else was done.
I would start in the middle and do about 9 ft and fix that part of the wall and then 8 ft on each end of that. Hopefully you are left with a very short piece on each end to do.
Still not sure how you water proof blocks when both sides are exposed.

 

[Cigal]

I have seen a 12 ft wide opening put in a wall to join two shops they just cut out a hole 10 ft high and nothing else was done.
I would start in the middle and do about 9 ft and fix that part of the wall and then 8 ft on each end of that. Hopefully you are left with a very short piece on each end to do.
Still not sure how you water proof blocks when both sides are exposed.

Thanks!

It will be closed in after within the wall with drywall on the outside and cement board > kerdi waterproofing membrane > and frp panels on the wet side

The concrete will also be re-sloped for drainage. Ill just have to figure out how to reframe the bottom to attach the the blocks to keep the structural integrity of the wall. Usually when we splice framing it's done at the top of the wall not the bottom. Ill probably have a mini wall (top and bottom track) sandwiched between block on floor and wall above.

 

[Nealtw]

Thanks!

It will be closed in after within the wall with drywall on the outside and cement board > kerdi waterproofing membrane > and frp panels on the wet side

The concrete will also be re-sloped for drainage. Ill just have to figure out how to reframe the bottom to attach the the blocks to keep the structural integrity of the wall. Usually when we splice framing it's done at the top of the wall not the bottom. Ill probably have a mini wall (top and bottom track) sandwiched between block on floor and wall above.

Cut the studs 1/2" above the height of the finished block height Put the bottom rail up and hold the rail up with a few screws. when block is finished drop the rail down a screw it to the studs.

Plan B
On the water side remove the bottom 6" of one layer of drywall
Paint the second layer of drywall and one inch of the floor with blueskin primer apply 6" wide blueskin to the wall and 1" of floor Replace the missing drywall with 1/2" concrete board set in a heavy line of silicone
Add another concrete board 8" high also set in a good line of silicone.
Tape and fill the gaps with thin set and maybe stucco over it all.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.aquatac-primer.1000403421.html
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.blueskin-weather-barrier-6-inch.1000403475.html

 

[de-nagorg]

You guys both seem to agree on not going through the stud. What is your reasoning, or did I touch on it in my original post.

I just hope having the lag bolts close to studs instead of through them will be able to pinch them hard enough. Would the weight tear the lag bolt through the drywall? :vs_worry:

As you said a 3/4 bolt through the stud weakens it.

And Lag bolts will not get tight enough to hold the wall up.

We meant to use All thread bolts, with backer plates on both sides of the wall, tighten the nut very tight, but don't strip it, this will squeeze the 2X joist material tight into the wall, and then you can jack it up enough to cut out what you need to remove to have space for the blocks.

add a bottom plate, put it down, and seal it up with the cement board and waterproofing liner.


You can lift a section, or the entire wall an inch or so this way.


ED