You might consider replacing the breakers (only) with newly manufactured breakers which do not have the issues the old ones have as they are not made by the original manufacturer.
Who would they be made by, then? Would they be any better? While you're at that shop could you also get me a bunch of Pushmatic AFCIs, QO GFCIs that indicate with an LED, and CH duplex DFCIs? Coz I really need some magic breakers.
Seriously, it's gone the other way. The Chinese new-build Zinsco and FPE breakers
are actually worse than the originals.... but the redoubtable company making them has also managed to screw up Pushmatic breakers, which
weren't broken before.
By the way, involved in that fiasco is a name we are familiar with: Reliant, maker of overhyped second rate transfer switches.
I had read that it wasn't just the cb's that were the issue, but also the busbar.
Correct, unfortunately. The Stab Lok bus idea was bankrupt from the outset. Zinsco fared no better, those buses are unfixable.
For a counter-example of a company with bad breakers but good buses, where you
can just replace the breakers, look at Challenger. They cheerfully take BR breakers, in fact BR breakers *are* type C, the name change was to keep people from putting dangerous type C breakers in BR panels.
There was something I read about Eaton making a retrofit kit, but that it would be just as much $$ vs. replacing the entire panel (maybe not in my case since the meter is part of the situation).
Yeah, it's pricey. The bigger problem is the Eaton kit replaces the entire panel guts and the deadfront... and it is designed for "portrait" orientation not "landscape". It simply will not physically fit in your meter-main setup.
The people talking about working space are correct; that's an illegal location for a service panel. You don't have the width or height even if you moved the gas meter, and that can't be underfoot.
There is nothing physically wrong with FPE *meter pans*. So if meters don't require the same working space, you might be able to utterly abandon this box except for the meter, punch a 2" rigid conduit through that wall, and put a new main panel on the other side of it in the normal fashion. And just leave the remnants of that panel in place unused.