[Durt Ferguson]

OK, now I know that this is a DIY forum, and im usually a DIY kinda guy, however I do not have the time nor resources to repave my driveway. It is beyond what sealing will help. There are several spots where the driveway is cracked to the point where I can pull a chunk out with a little effort. I'd rather not cold patch it and deal with it over and over again. Also, at the entrance to the garage, one side of the asphalt is a good 1" below the level of the garage. I am looking to get some quotes to repave this and want to know the right questions to ask...some info :

- Driveway is about 35'x15'
- Doesn't look to be too thick in the areas that are cracking
- I drive a full-size pickup (F-150) and it is always parked in the driveway, every day, and would like to avoid ending up with indentations in my driveway from it. Do I need to go thicker than normal?

What sort of questions should I be asking the people I'm getting quotes from? Anyone recently had this sort of service done, and if so, price per sq ft?

Thanks!

 

[Afdglock45]

If using surface (3/8" max aggregate size in Illinois) no less then a 1 1/2". You might want to consider removing the old drive due to reflective cracking where the cracks in the old mat "reflect" up through your new mat. they make a geotextile fabric that can be laid over your old drive and paved over but as a highway builder I haven't seen positive results
A simple formula to use is length' x width' x thickness(ex 1.5") / 160= tons. Asphalt is sold @ the plant by the ton. Labor is usually double the materials cost. Our prices range $50-60 a ton for 9.5 mm surface. in order to get proper compaction make sure the company you use has a vibratory roller. Proper compaction will prevent the "rutting" problem that your truck might cause. A regular truck / car won't rut a properly compacted mix. Good luck

 

[Durt Ferguson]

That's really good information. What do some companies use instead of vibratory rollers, just plain old rollers?

 

[BigD9]

Good information Afdglock45 gave you, but maybe hard to come by when talking to a local driveway paving contractor. Now, if you just happen to see the "big guys" paving your local road out in front of your house and talk to them about getting them to pave your driveway when they come past that would be great. I am also of the opinion that parking a car/truck in the same spot every day, you will get tire indentations appearing after a time. About the only fool proof way to stop tire indentations would be to use concrete in the area where the car/truck is parked and then asphalt the rest of the way. You will see this done at many intersections where traffic signals cause the traffic to stop and start causing rutting. The State will use concrete in the intersection area then use asphalt on the rest of the road.

Again, I don't want to diminish what Afdglock45 said, because he was right on the money, but a small driveway is very hard to get someone with the "proper" equipment used in road paving, in there economically.

Good luck and let us know what you do, OK?

 

[Durt Ferguson]

I will keep you posted. This may be a job for next summer. It's not too awful right now and I have more pressing issues. The concrete steps going up to my front porch are starting to crack and break.

 

[Afdglock45]

BigD has some good points about the concrete, it all depends on price, availability and personal preferences. I've seen some fly-by-nights use lawn rollers and vibrating sand plates that you walk behind. a quality asphalt contractor will have a small to medium sized vibe roller that also works in "static" non vibe mode used to take out lines / marks. In my opinion do not use a contractor who does not own a vibe roller. It's asphalt 101 - basic