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Discussion Starter #1
Can some one advise how I can spot repair some sheetrock repairs in the knockdown finish ceiling, moved some ac registers? Can this be done without fully re-shooting the full ceiling, if so how?

House had some round older ac vents and we moved their location and changed to normal rectangle.

Thanks
 

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Depends on how the knockdown was done. Hopper and air compressor usually has a neater look to it, not so random as stomping and trowling it down. Stomping and trowling is easier to match because of it being more random. If a hopper was used the first time around, you would want to use a hopper again to get the closest match.

If the repairs aren't too big, you could use the Homax aerosol cans which do a decent job of matching knockdown for small areas.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Depends on how the knockdown was done. Hopper and air compressor usually has a neater look to it, not so random as stomping and trowling it down. Stomping and trowling is easier to match because of it being more random. If a hopper was used the first time around, you would want to use a hopper again to get the closest match.

If the repairs aren't too big, you could use the Homax aerosol cans which do a decent job of matching knockdown for small areas.

Yes it was hopper.

Thanks
 

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Drywall and Painting Pro
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Can some one advise how I can spot repair some sheetrock repairs in the knockdown finish ceiling, moved some ac registers? Can this be done without fully re-shooting the full ceiling, if so how?

House had some round older ac vents and we moved their location and changed to normal rectangle.

Thanks
I always give my customers options when it comes to repairs on textured ceilings and walls.

The best way to get a perfect knockdown ceiling would be to skim coat the entire ceiling and respray the knockdown. But a lot of times some people don't have the budget for that and they really aren't as particular about a ceiling as I am. Lol...

On small repairs like you're talking about, I've found that the knockdown texture sponge can get pretty darn close in matching the knockdown texture. One reason is you can blend the texture into the existing texture without having a lot of knockdown spray build up where the new texture meets the old texture like you would with a hopper.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
I always give my customers options when it comes to repairs on textured ceilings and walls.

The best way to get a perfect knockdown ceiling would be to skim coat the entire ceiling and respray the knockdown. But a lot of times some people don't have the budget for that and they really aren't as particular about a ceiling as I am. Lol...

On small repairs like you're talking about, I've found that the knockdown texture sponge can get pretty darn close in matching the knockdown texture. One reason is you can blend the texture into the existing texture without having a lot of knockdown spray build up where the new texture meets the old texture like you would with a hopper.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k43yfYu5UDs

Thanks, would you use a premix on this or could I get away with a rapid set?
 

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Thanks, would you use a premix on this or could I get away with a rapid set?
I prefer to use premix all purpose for matching knockdown texture. Simply because the quick sets consistency is always changing causing it to knock down differently than the all purpose.

*Tip- If you put a fan or heat gun on the AP it will dry just a quick as the quick setting mud.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I prefer to use premix all purpose for matching knockdown texture. Simply because the quick sets consistency is always changing causing it to knock down differently than the all purpose.

*Tip- If you put a fan or heat gun on the AP it will dry just a quick as the quick setting mud.
Thanks, the guy that originally shot it used 45 minute powder mix, I believe! I have 4 areas to do and due to a stress crack in the kitchen ceiling, may just completely re-float it and fire up the hopper gun and do it all!

Thanks!
 

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I prefer to use premix all purpose for matching knockdown texture. Simply because the quick sets consistency is always changing causing it to knock down differently than the all purpose.

*Tip- If you put a fan or heat gun on the AP it will dry just a quick as the quick setting mud.
Just to be clear when using the sponge, I would "sponge" the wet joint compound or is there some other type of material that I need to use on the ceiling prior to using the sponge?

Also, is there something else that I can use instead a a Lexan Knowdown Paddle? Something else so I wouldn't have to purchase this item for a one time use?
 

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Normally you thin down the j/c for any type of texture including knockdown. How much/little to thin it depends on how thick/thin the texture is. Might take a little experimenting on some scrap [cardboard will work] to get the consistency right.
 

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Just to be clear when using the sponge, I would "sponge" the wet joint compound or is there some other type of material that I need to use on the ceiling prior to using the sponge?



Also, is there something else that I can use instead a a Lexan Knowdown Paddle? Something else so I wouldn't have to purchase this item for a one time use?


Just get your repairs nice and flat fee for using a sponge to match the light down texture. Apply the thinned down joint compound directly to this lockdown sponge and then dab onto the repair and when you get to the existing texture just kind a feather it out to nothing.

You do not have to use the Lexan knockdown paddle. You can just use a regular stainless steel or blue steel drywall taping knife to knock down the texture and that will be fine. Like Mark said experiment on a scrap piece of cardboard or scrap piece of drywall first to dial-in your specific texture.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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