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Discussion Starter #1
I was just reading a previous thread on this site about a similar kind of drywall crack, along the corner bead. One answer was that the metal bead had moved/dislodged and needed to be nailed/screwed back in to place. I tried to put a a few drywall screws into the corner, to no avail. As I was doing this, I realized I had no idea where the holes in the corner bead were.

Should I remove the existing joint compound (sanding? break it up?) to find out where to put the screws?



The hairline crack pretty much goes right to the ceiling.


And if you're feeling generous, what would you do with this section (see my last post)?


Thanks! :)
 

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I think you could have just gotten away with just spackeling that. Sheetrock screws only no nails will hold the corner bead, they probably didn't put Enough in when installed.
 

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i'd just put the screw as close to the edge as possible, no need to look for the actual holes. check with a drywall knife to make sure it all can be coat(no screws sitting out so it will bump) then mud it, sand, prime paint.
 

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I don't know what other thread you are referring to so I will just give you my input. A lot of drywall finishers didn't tape the corner bead to the drywall that is why the crack is there. Even if you joint compound over, it will crack again. And like whomever said, you don't need to screw in the holes supplied, just makes it a little easier for new installation. Tape it, float it, no more crack.
 

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CopperClad said:
I don't know what other thread you are referring to so I will just give you my input. A lot of drywall finishers didn't tape the corner bead to the drywall that is why the crack is there. Even if you joint compound over, it will crack again. And like whomever said, you don't need to screw in the holes supplied, just makes it a little easier for new installation. Tape it, float it, no more crack.
Nah, to tape over corner bead it will shatter once it gets knocked into... servers no purpose it won't cover the crack, it will just cover the corner bead.

It's common on none load barring walls.
 

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So your saying, if he screws the corner bead , and then tapes and muds the crack, if someone bumps into the corner it will shatter.. But you just wanted him to touch it up with some mud.. If someone bumps in the corner then it won't shatter?
 

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CopperClad said:
So your saying, if he screws the corner bead , and then tapes and muds the crack, if someone bumps into the corner it will shatter.. But you just wanted him to touch it up with some mud.. If someone bumps in the corner then it won't shatter?
The corner bead is there for a reason, don't mess with it by putting tape over it folded outwards with mud on it think about it once it gets hit, not only that but your suppose to leave if any like no mud on the actual bead itself and that gets panted.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
"I don't know what other thread you are referring to so I will just give you my input."
I linked to the other thread in my original post above. I was also looking for some help with the area near the radiator. You'll see that if you click on the link above.

Thanks for all of your help here!
 

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Ok. Well the reason that crack is there , is because it wasn't taped to the sheetrock. If you don't tape the corner bead to the sheetrock you should start ! Many homes that you walk into has that crack you see.. and its not because lack of screws/nails, although nails in the old days did make it worse. Tape it! No crack! Good luck !
 

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All on preference to tape the corner bead, lack of screws yes not enough layers of mud, none load barring walls movement therefor separation crack.
I hear what your say good point thanks :)
 

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That should work with the paper tape hiding the crack. Some pros do this- to metal corner bead- tape over just the outside ends, not the middle of the c.b.; https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:eC0guAIlx34J:www.jlconline.com/cgi-local/viewnew.pdf/0/4c6f877a2f79b1a9c8b4011f74f2511b/www.jlconline.com/cgi-bin/jlconline.storefront/4d28b43611c60ded27170a32100a063d+fasteners+for+metal+corner+bead&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESijcb1EXDCn4xazGw0tOaTxs4x0gjNSeJ1ccY8UMYk9U81kxJR6hNj4mpJ8KhJZ0U_8BzFAFWxK3fYd9pCW1hxK6LGJkOyl_xovRBPiN7uC531k3p6LQqebtOF5hla0EKkdN3yG&sig=AHIEtbQIwcKTuVdYJlpT_KKuN-dhkJrzwA

Older metal c.b.'s show cracks, often from the wood framing expanding/contracting with the seasons or HVAC changes because they are fastened through to that framing rather than just drywall, as are paper-faced metal beads, clinched-on and "speed bead"; http://literature.usg.com/pdf/J1445.pdf

Gary
 
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